Rag & Bone

As of late I seem to be going through a bit of a quarter life crisis. I keep feeling like I should have accomplished so much more by now, but what exactly that is has totally evaded me.  Career wise I couldn’t be happier. I have a job I absolutely love, but when you ask me about next steps, I currently have no idea what that entails.  So, with my completely unnecessary anxiety welling up, I figured I would take this week to look at two guys who actually figured out what their passion was (even if later in life) and actually built their own opportunities surrounding it.  I’m talking about the creators of the New York based fashion label Rag & Bone.

While the Rag & Bone story officially started in 2002, it unofficially goes back much, much longer than that. Marcus Wainright and David Neville the company's co-owners and co-creative directors actually met in boarding school in the Berkshires (they are in fact British, and very proud of it).  Their friendship blossomed after sometime in Portugal before entering University where they worked at the same bar.  The two went to different Universities and studied different things yet still remained close friends.

This is where my appreciation for the Rag & Bone story comes in.  Contrary to what you may expect, neither of the English blokes attended Central Saint Martins (As you might expect of any well known British designer). Neither even studied fashion! In fact, it wasn’t even on their radar. Marcus ended up setting up his own telecom company after graduation, and David went into investment banking. 

It was only a matter of time before Marcus became fed up with London’s notorious weather, and set his sights on much warmer Mexico.  There, he met his wife and the couple made New York their permanent home (so much for escaping the weather!) Now, the Rag & Bone wheels start turning. It was here that he set up the company. 

Marcus Wainwright of Rag & Bone

On a side note before I go further: I should specify that what I appreciate is the spontenaity involved, the ability to have a feeling and roll with it, to not be afraid of where it might take you.  I’ve always admired people who have that in them. As my coworker (and fellow Cancerian) often mention, it isn’t an angel or devil that sits on our shoulders it’s those pesky bugs “Fear & Doubt” that buzz in my ear all day long.  It’s a blessing and a curse. It drives me to go that extra mile to be successful, but sometimes it makes me play life close to the hip.  So, when someone is actually able to say, “I hate the weather, I’m going to move” and follow through (and create incredible success from it to boot) I will forever admire (and be slightly envious of) you.  Sorry, that was probably way more of a personal aside than you guys signed up for. Now back to the fashion!

Shortly after, Marcus asked his best friend David to lend his financial skills and sense of style to the company.  At first David worked from London on the side, but it didn’t take long for him to follow in Marcus’ footsteps. David left his investment banking job in London and joined Marcus full time in New York. 

David Neville of Rag & Bone

In the early stages of the company, they duo hadn’t quite planned out what direction they wanted to go. For a while, it seemed sneakers were in their future, (before that Marcus had envisioned Rag & Bone as a sandwich shop!) but it was denim that would set the foundation for the brand which now has full men’s and women’s collections.  The twosome wanted to make a great pair of dark denim, that they would wear themselves. Thus, the next step in the Rag & Bone adventure began.  Kentucky, believe it or not was actually one of the largest denim manufacturing hotspots at the time. So, Marcus and David made Kentucky kind of like a second home (though living out of a motel) in order to learn directly from the manufacturers what goes into making the perfect pair of jeans. By working directly with the craftsmen who have been doing just that nearly their whole lives, the two learned the ins and outs of creating a masterfully produced garment, and developed an appreciation for quality and attention to detail that they themselves perfected for two years before actually launching their first collection in 2004.

Currently, Rag & Bone has earned a reputation for easy, ultra-wearable sportswear.  They have a distinctly “British tailored” aesthetic that imparts a clean, crisp feeling to their understated garments.  It has also earned them quite the celebrity following on both the men’s and women’s front and a CFDA award for men’s wear in 2007.

Jennifer Garner wearing Rag & Bone



Jon Hamm in Rag & Bone



Their clothing philosophy (as well as the fact that Marcus and David seem to be two of the most down to earth guys in the industry) have made an avid fan out of me as well.  One of the pieces in my wardrobe that sees frequent rotation these days is Rag & Bone’s  Stam Romper in Nude. On me, it is actually really close to nude, I could almost disappear behind it.  What’s nice though is that while it is nearly identical to the color of my fair skin, it has a strong yellow undertone, which plays off my own rose hues livening my complexion up a bit, making it appear a hair brighter than it is.

It is one of the easiest pieces to throw on in the summer. It’s light weight and breathable, yet still looks sharp and put together.  It doesn’t cling or stick or ride up. Plus, because it’s a romper, you only have to throw on one piece and not fuss over finding a top to go with the bottoms.  That doesn’t mean you can’t style it a million different ways to give it your own spin, and make it appropriate for different occasions (why it has made such frequent rotation in my wardrobe these days).  When I want to feel a little less "nude"  in this look, I throw on a pair of knit grey leg warmers and camel colored heels. The color story holds true to that austere British sensibility, and it keeps at least part of me warm when those Boston nights drop 20 degrees without warning. I should mention, knits are something Rag & Bone do very, very well. 

Or, when I want to be even more covered up, a chiffon and lace top over the romper, topped off with a scarf and black tights does the trick. I feel this is a good example to remind all you ladies that rompers are a huge trend for the summer, and they don’t have to be a one trick pony. Also, just because layering has traditionally been done UNDER the romper, if you want to avoid that parochial look there is nothing to say that you can’t wear a top OVER the piece for a whole new look- just another way to extend the life of that valuable piece. 

Or, instead of a top, you can always throw on a blazer (my solution for everything obviously). Paired with a braid and navy linen wedges it’s an easy go to look for a drink (or two) with coworkers on a random Tuesday night.

It may only be one piece, but but it can possibly one of the most versatile in your wardrobe.

Creed Part II

You may have noticed many of the designers I’ve talked about here on The Well Versed Wardrobe actually have fragrance lines of their own.  It’s also not hard to notice that everyone and their mother has their own fragrance.  Brittney Spears, Michael Jordan, Donna Karan, Paris Hilton, Justin Beiber (you can’t have world entertainment domination without a fragrance), P.Diddy (or whatever his name is these days), even Derek Jeter (who, believe it or not has the #2 selling celebrity fragrance in the country: "Driven"). I could go on, and on... and on, and on.  With such a slew of them to choose from, it’s easy to forget, just like in fashion there are a few industry elitists.

Undoubtedly the people who have been doing this the longest, with a well deserved reputation for luxury and excellence are the Parisian based fragrance house CREED. Started in 1760, the house is the oldest (and currently only) dynastic (passed down from generation to generation) privately held luxury fragrance house in the world. Steadfastness to tradition and production techniques along with being strongest proponents of natural ingredients in their fragrances (in the industry) has earned the company quite the following.   Royals, Starlets, Politicians, and even Athletes have all fallen in love with the allure of CREED. They have created customs scents from King George the III to Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt.  Speaking of which, they actually have a very unique place in the world of politics. People in places of government seem to be quite drawn to the house. In fact Laura Bush is known to wear “Love in White” and was rumored to have left a bottle at the White House as a housewarming present for Michelle Obama, who has also admitted to wearing the fragrance. This has earned “Love in White” the nickname “The White House Fragrance” With over 44 fragrances their extensive collection of fragrances for both men, women and universal scents has something for everyone.  From fruity florals to spicy musk each fragrance is unique, with its own inspiration, components, and details. 

For over 250 years the company has been perfecting its craft and making the world smell better with the rarest and finest ingredients, harvested from around the world that are then macerated, blended and filtered by hand even to this day. Almost all other fragrance houses have abandoned these historical processes. These techniques started with the company’s founder James Henry Creed who made the first CREED fragrance “Royal English Leather” for King George the III.  A little history factoid: Back in the day if you were blindfolded, there was very little difference between the aroma of the Royal Palace and the Royal Stables. It would often get so bad, the king would hold his leather gloves to his nose to get a breath of fresh air. James Henry Creed, who happened to be the King's glove maker, was commissioned to create a fragrance the King could spray onto his glove to do the job even better. Hence the birth of “Royal English Leather”.

Since then, the company has been passed down, from father to son for six generations (verging on it’s seventh). Each of the heirs learns the family business from a very young age, and is sent to trek the world meeting with the companies trusted suppliers, many of whom they have had relationships with for decades. For instance, CREED is one of the only companies left in the world that can actually use responsibly harvested sandalwood from Mysore, India because of the long standing relationship with the local growers.  This sandalwood is the highest quality and most expensive grown under strict regulations in a location not accessible by air, making it nearly unobtainable by other companies.  

Olivier Creed

Currently, Olivier Creed sits at the helm. Inherited in X Olivier has spent the past several years adding successful fragrances such as Acqua Fiorentina, Green Irish Tweed, and Aventus (just to name a select few) to the line.  His son, Erwin Creed is currently learning the craft, and will be ready to take over the family business when the time comes. Now, he is busy traversing the world hand selecting the different components that create the different CREED scents.  While he may not head the company, he has already had a significant impact on the collection, working with his father to create Love in Black, Original Santal, and Royal Ceylan.

Erwin Creed photographed by Melissa Hom for New York Magazine

The company, while not expanding in size business wise, (very intentionally), is still working on expanding it's fragrance collection. I can't wait to smell what they come up with next.

Napoleon and Awards Shows: Just Another Day With Creed (No, not from The Office)

A little outdoor adventure this weekend inspired me to do a little rearranging on my vanity this weekend.  The end result was a semi- shrine to my fragrance collection- all two bottles of it. I’m not a huge perfume person. I love smelling wonderful like any girl would, and I also appreciate how a fragrance can be that one last step in adding ambiance to your look, but after working with it all day long sometimes, the thought of it makes me nauseous.  Somehow though, these two scents by CREED manage to hold a special place in my heart… and nose.

For as much of a girly girl as I may seem to be, you might be surprised to know that both of these fragrances are actually intended for men. Well, Aventus is legitimately a men’s fragrance, Millesime Imperial is unisex.  I’ve always been attracted to scents with subtle woodsy aromas… I’m pretty sure this dates back to a family trip in Egypt where we visited an essential oils manufacturer and I fell in love with sandalwood and cedar.  Both of these CREED fragrances have that woodsy base, but their top and middle notes make each one distinctly different. The inspiration behind both is also distinctly unique, one taking a page from history, the other pop culture.

Aventus, the newest fragrance in the CREED line was launched in 2010 and was inspired by the illustrious career of Napoleon. This inspiration runs across everything from the ingredients that were chosen to the design of the bottle, and certainly the name (which comes from an archaic word meaning “success”).   The ingredients tell the story of Napoleon’s conquests and victories, from black currant from Corsica, the island which he was born, Caville Blanc apples, native to France, the headquarters of his Empire, Dry Louisiana Birch, the wood of his throne, to even pineapple, his favorite desert.  Along with subtle hints of oak moss, ambergris and Gourmand vanilla the ingredients combine to form an elixir that smells, quite simply like bottled ambition.

I can’t explain it, but for me it’s a scent that inspires confidence and strength. This could all just be the result of a female wearing a man’s cologne, but I love it. I reserve it for those special occasions on colder days when I need an extra backbone. Another special touch that adds to that masculine power-trip feel is the bottle itself. It is actually wrapped in leather- a first for the Creed line-. The flask shape of the bottle actually dates back to the Nepoleonic era, just another way to tie in the inspiration.

Millesime Imperial (the other fragrance nestled so nicely alongside Aventus on my vanity) takes a different tone. The inspiration for this one is not quite as robust- it is actually inspired by the Hollywood awards season. With all the glitz and gold of Emmys, Tonys, Oscars, and Golden Globes CREED produced what is now often lauded as the “Gold Standard” of fragrance (this comes from the gold bottle inspired the statues synonymous with the awards season). This fragrance is lighter and definitely geared toward warmer weather. While it has a similar woodsy base to Aventus, it also draws on sea salt, lemon, bergamot and Florentine iris to deliver a completely different feel- one that is supposed to, according to CREED, “transport you to another world of opulence and luxury.” I’d say it at least helps you pretend.

If there is one thing CREED gets, it is luxury. Since 1760 the company that has been passed down from generation to generation has used the finest ingredients harvested from all over the world to produce its fragrances. In fact that’s where the “Millesime” comes from. CREED always uses ingredients of incredible quality, but the “Millesime” perfumes are the ones that are made with cream of the crop from that year- it’s a mark of quality.

It’s that long standing history and dedication to quality that I will cover on Wednesday in Part II of the CREED Odyssey. You’ll see why CREED should be part of any Well-Versed Wardrobe.

Chefs, Baguettes, and Spies: A Lunchtime Lesson on Fendi

Fendi Zucca Rose Mini Chef bag

I don’t remember a time when my purse wasn’t more like a mobile home.  I’ve somehow always felt it necessary to cart my life around on my shoulder.  The aching back I earned from a 10 lb accessory seemed to be worth having everything I need (and don’t need). Though, I have to admit, my bag always seems to be packed with the wrong things. I never seem to have a pen, Tylenol, hair tie, etc when I need it. But, ask me for two pairs of glasses I don’t even wear, a computer charger, or Kate Somerville skincare samples, and I guarantee you I could probably pull all three out of my bag on any given day (all three happen to be in my purse right now).  Because of this, I would say 90% of my bags are large enough to fit a bowling ball and then some.

Fendi Zucca Rose Mini Chef bag

I do have a few however, that fit the bill when I decide to simplify my life.  On those days, (though very far and few between), and when the sun is shining and the birds are chirping, Fendi’s Zucca Rose Mini Chef bag is the perfect little thing.  I can’t help but smile when I look at this little pouch. It’s just so cute!  The warm cream color, the hand printed details, and soft swooping pleats, all shrunken down into a bite sized morsel make for a precious summer accessory. Everything is more precious when it’s tiny. Even more, all of the characteristic Fendi trademarks: the signature Double F “Zucca" print, the branded hardware; they all play a supporting role instead of becoming the main attraction.  I’m not really one for heavily outwardly branded goods, so if I’m going to do it this is the way to go. The real star here are the hand printed roses. They add a nice dose of color and texture to the otherwise understated baker's hat shaped bag.

This unusual treatment to the fabric, printing and dying the material, has become a Fendi signature over the years…. all starting with Karl Lagerfeld.

Now, we all know Kaiser Karl as the King of the Chanel Empire but, you may not know he has a longer standing history with Rome based Fendi line.  Since 1965 the German designer has collaborated with the brand, reinventing their image, and growing their empire from fur and leather goods, to full ready-to-wear collections, eye ware, timepieces, and even house ware. Lagerfeld, backed by the history and reputation of the Fendi name,  and the support of the 5 (Carla, Paola, Anna, Franca & Alda) Fendi sisters that took over the family business (from their parents and founders Edoardo and Adele Fendi) redefined the  look of fur and leather, the hallmark elements of the Fendi collection.  Both materials became soft and supple, instead of stiff , structured, and heavy.  He reinterpreted fur in a way that transformed the material, often dyed, printed, woven, or shaved, the fur took on an “is it, or isn’t it” quality. This seemed to ease the conscious of the customer. Even though it was real fur, if it was dyed pink or felt like velvet they had less of a problem with it, helping keep the business alive with minimal fuss among the ever growing anti-fur campaigns. (So goes the fashion world I suppose. I feel I should make it clear that I'm not condoning it).   His treatment of leather was equally innovative. He brought back skins that had previously sat in the back corners of the work room, and made them fashionable once again.

And of course, he developed the now instantly recognizable Double F logo of the Fendi brand and their trademark “Zucca” printed wares, that turn the double F into a geometric pattern.

Fendi Zucca Baguette Bag

While Karl, who still remains the creative director of Fendi’s Fur and Women’s Ready-to-Wear divisions, is attributed with launching the brand to cult status it is Silvia Venturini Fendi, the granddaughter of Edoardo and Adele who should be credited with maintaining that status year after year. In her role as Creative Director of Men’s and Women’s Accessories (she is also the Creative Director of Men’s Ready-to-Wear) she has churned out “it bag" after “it bag.”  After the heavily logo based designs of the  80’s and early 90’s that were knocked off to such an incredible degree it became  passé to carry a bag branded across every inch. Fendi, and its signature Zucca look, fell into that category.  Then, a little baguette came to the rescue…. seriously.  It was Silvia’s Baguette Bag that re-launched the Fendi accessory back to cult status. Produced in over 600 variations over the years there was a baguette for every a-lister (and lucky normie) out there.

Julia Stegner carrying classic Fendi Baguette
in an editorial.

She did it again in 2005 with the Spy Bag…

Gwen Stefani carrying the Spy Bag

…and then again in 2006 with the B Bag.                                            

Paris Hiltion carrying Fendi's "B" bag...
She has this bag in at least three other variations

Having spent the past 87  years perfecting their craft (yes that’s right, 87 years, the company was first established in 1925 on  Via del Plebiscito, Rome) Fendi clearly has something special for everyone. It’s no surprise whether you need a discrete little clutch for your eyeliner and cell, or a large “I’m carrying a designer bag!!” slouchy hobo you can lug your life around in, they’ve got it.  My Fendi bag of choice happens to be petite and pale with rose kissed freckles…. Nothing like me at all.                                                                      

Helmut Lang: A Well-Versed Lesson in Minimalism

The crazy weather we had in Massachusetts last week confronted me with a question that no girl really ever wants to consider.  If my wardrobe were to blow completely away (which for a while I thought was nearly a possibility!) what would I absolutely have to save? What would be that one piece that I just can’t live without?  Normally this is a question I would brood over, and ultimately tell you you’re crazy, you can’t pick just one thing.  But, with the weather outside turning my nightmare into what felt like an impending reality, I thought, just maybe on the off chance something might happen, I should seriously consider it. I was shocked at how quickly I had an initial answer, and it’s always best to go with your first instinct.  If there was a chance my entire wardrobe would end up in Oz my Helmut Lang blazer would be the one thing I wouldn’t  let the munchkins get their hands on. (Alright you got me, “one of”… I’ll have to start keeping my Alexander McQueen Moth Rosette scarf next to the blazer so I could grab both at once.) It’s no surprise that the two things in my wardrobe I would risk my life to save happen to be a blazer and a scarf.

Helmut Lang Combo Blazer

Just like any other addict, us fashion junkies have our specific vices.  Some girls hoard shoes, for some their weakness is designer handbags, others feign for that perfect LBD (which they own in every fabrication, every silhouette, and every sleeve/skirt length). For me, my fashion crack seems to come in the form of jackets and scarves. I need another of either like a whole in the head, but I just can’t help myself (it truly is an addiction).

My jacket rack

I have to say though, since purchasing this Helmut Lang Combo Blazer, my cravings seem to have been curbed. Simply because I don’t think I’ll find another jacket I love so much that seems just so perfect for, well, everything…. (that doesn’t mean I’m still not on the lookout). I can wear this jacket with just about anything- and I do. This jacket leaves my wardrobe to make public appearances more than any other piece. The clean lines, daringly different silhouette, and chiffon inserts at the pockets and sleeves make this no ordinary jacket.  This jacket instantly adds streamlined polish to any outfit, even if it’s only a white tank top and leggings. It's the perfect thing to throw on when you need a little structure in your life... when you want to keep things simple, and clear, but make a statement.

I have to add, it’s also the perfect blazer for a night out on the town (sspecially when paired with a Cynthia Vincent metal embellished top, leather shorts and Jimmy Choo gladiators).  The fabric is durable, and moves with ease, but it’s perfect cut and sharp tailoring keep you looking as austere and crisp as the ever severe Victoria Beckham. The chiffon sleeves let you breathe in those hot over-crowded bars, yet at the same time are perfect for summer nights in Boston, where you never know if you’re going to end up standing outside waiting for a cab freezing your  tail off even if it was too hot out to use your flat iron when you got ready.

When wearing the jacket during the day, the threadbare tee and sheath legging by the label are the perfect way to complete the black and white minimalist look that has become so synonymous with the label. The pieces are simple and straightforward, but in silhouettes and fabrications that add a bit of a luxe edge.  This deceptive simplicity is a common thread throughout Helmut’s pieces …. He laces his clothing with little nuggets not meant for everyone to see, that become the wearers little special secret.  The small insert on the hip of the legging, the draped back of the tank, and the sheer slash of chiffon that wraps around your waist in the jacket, all subtle elements that the owner can appreciate. 

Helmut Lang Threadbare Tee with Draped Back

Helmut Lang Threadbare Tee and Sheath Legging

These personal details that make you feel like you’re wearing a designer piece, but look like you’re just effortlessly sharp and fashionably intellectual.  As with most abstract and minimalist art, what seems so simple to the eye is actually covertly complex, and seemingly ordinary easy forms, are highly intentional and painstaking to execute. We all know it’s much harder to draw a straight line, than a crooked one.  Using fashion as his medium, hidden beneath the architectural lines and steely fabrications, Lang presents us with a delicate lesson in balance and proportion.  

Helmut Lang: Self Portrait

Helmut Lang has been teaching this lesson season after season through both women’s and means wear, footwear and accessories, since 1986. The Austrian born designer began the line with a small made-to-measure studio in Vienna, that lead to a fashion presentation in Paris, and here we arrive at a 25 year old multi-national iconic brand whose goods can be found world-wide at high end retailers. Over these 25 years he has defined an aesthetic within the fashion industry that goes against the traditional glitz and glamour. Instead, he strips fashion down to the bare minimum- the cut and the fabric. Helmut Lang’s aesthetic has often been compared to that of his peers, Jil Sander (who was also acquired by Prada around the same time as Helmut Lang, and left her own label around the same time he left his) and Yohji Yamamoto- all who subscribe to the school of minimal utilitarianism.




Helmut Lang Spring 2010

 

Jil Sander Fall 2011

Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2011

His bare-bones approach accompanied with ground-breaking use of ultra high tech fabrics has not only created some incredible pieces of clothing, it has earned him Designer of the Year Awards from the CFDA (twice) VH-1/Vogue, GQ, and the New York Times. He was also awarded Fashion Group International’s, “The Imagineers of Our Time" Award (2004) and the Pitti Imagine Award, Best Designer of the Nineties, in 1998.  This style that Helmut Lang has come to embody has had a remarkable influence on the fashion industry.  His minimalist influence is easy to spot on the runways for Fall 2011, particularly in the collections of Rick Owens, Roland Mouret, even Calvin Klein (under current creative direction of Francisco Costa).

Rick Owens Fall 2011

Roland Mouret Fall 2011

Calvin Klein Fall 2011

Even though Lang himself left his label and retired from fashion in 2005 (resulting in the label being sold by Prada and subsequent two year hiatus from the fashion circuit) under the creative direction of Michael and Nicole Colovos (the husband and wife duo are former creative directors of the denim line Habitual) the label continues to thrive and pops up regularly as part of the fashion savvy wardrobe.

Michael and Nicole Colovos
Photography by Robert Wright for the
New York Times

Olivia Wilde wore the Helmut Lang Combo Blazer to Comic-Con in San Diego 2010, Kristen Cavallari, bombed around the Hills in his Threadbare Tee, and even Julia Roberts chose to sport his Sheath leggings.

Oliva Wilde seen in Helmut Lang's Combo Blazer
Comic-Con San Diego 2010

Kristen Cavallari in Helmut Lang's Threadbare Tee

Julia Roberts in Helmut Lang Sheath Leggings

Hmmmmm- all three of those pieces look vaguely familiar…..

Under new ownership and creative direction the line has taken on a decidedly different business approach, incorporating more “advanced contemporary” methods of production instead its previous made-to-measure business.  The sale of the line to Links Theory (The same company that on owns Theory and Joie) along with the change in production techniques and shift from especially high tech fabrics has dropped the price point of the line about 20%, making it a bit more accessible.  The line now has price points similar to M Missoni or 3.1 Phillip Lim (other advanced contemporary vendors) instead of the original couture prices.  In spite of the changes in creative direction and production the line holds true to its utilitarian roots and continues to be a leading innovator, trend setter, and inspirational standard in the fashion industry.  It will also continue to hold a special place in my wardrobe and provide me with the comfort of a precise, uncomplicated outfit when my life outside is a whirlwind.