A Bit of Millinery on Memorial Day

My summer uniform: floppy hat, cropped top,
high waisted maxi skirt & sandals.
(You'll have to excuse my wrinkly skirt, it was a busy day)

Nothing says it’s the start of summer to me quite like a floppy hat and sandals. With Memorial Day being the unofficial start to summer, it’s time to take those warm weather staples out of hibernation.

Hats on a woman in a America seem to be a thing of the past, they often only make appearances earlier in the month at Churchill Downs (I'm talking about the Kentucky Derby of course). I think it’s high time we took a cue from our friends across the pond and extend our headgear beyond a day with the ponies.

My hat of choice, being wide brimmed and moderately floppy, is a well known favorite of Derby attendees and has actually been around for centuries. It's the perfect accessory for long days in the sun. The material is light weight and breathable, it’s also pliable letting you bend and manipulate the folds and waves of the brim to perfectly shield your brow from the changing angles of the sun’s rays. Not to mention it lets you cover just enough of your face to give that extra bit of coy mysterious-ness.

This hat, just like many of the others you find today is actually made of paper straw, not real straw.  Shantung paper (that is generally made of Manila hemp plant fibers) is rolled into yarn to simulate straw. It is actually more resilient, and easier to manipulate than real straw. It also accepts dyes better, allowing for more vibrant colors. The use of paper straw to make hats became widely popular in the mid 1900's when real Panama straw (used of course to make the most famous of straw hats, the "Panama hat") became scarce. Now, paper straw constitutes 65% of the straw hat market.

Traditional Panama Hats

Straw (or what resembles straw) hats have come a long way over the decades. They have evolved not only in shape and size ranging from traditional to avant garde, but also in the materials used to produce a quality product. Paper straw has cornered the market for so long because of its ready availability, durability, and cost effectiveness... but of course there must be something out there that's a bit more luxurious than paper and a bit more transportable (while fairly pliable paper straw hats can still loose their shape if not handled with care). The ability to pack a hat is an essential quality for the warm weather jet-setter. If you think about it, whether you are a regular globetrotter or a more infrequent traveler most of us only bring out our hats when gearing up for vacation! How had no one thought of this sooner??  One of America's most well known hat designers (or if you really want to sound well-versed, milliner), Eric Javits, saw a niche in the market. He realized a need for a high-end straw sun hat that could be packed for travel without cracking or losing its shape.

Thus, Javits invented what is now coined the "Squishee" hat: a hat that resembles the look of straw but can easily be packed, squished, and crushed and bounce back to its original shape. Squishee is the actual trademarked name of the material used to create the hats (now also a full line of handbags and shoes.) It is a super resilient blend of  manmade fibers that are squished and crushed several times before they are woven (in a braided fashion) together to make the hat, thus increasing its flexibility after final production.  Eric Javits also produced a line of hats made from this material that have a 50+ UPF rating, providing maximum UVA/UVB protection. (A reason why these toppers cost around $325).

Leighton Meester wearing an Eric Javits Squishee hat
on the set of Gossip Girl

It’s no surprise that with his ultra functional materials combined with strong sense of fashion Eric Javits has become a regular name among the hat wearing elite.  His designs can be found adorning the heads of everyone from Britney Spears, Zoe Saldana, to Hillary Clinton...even Kim Kardashian.

I can't help but point out, that Kim reminds me of another of my favorite fedora wearing femme-fatales- Carmen Sandiego... I mean that in the best way possible.  Maybe it’s just me?

While not one of his creations, that's why I love my metallic striped number because reminds me of one of his creations. It will do just nicely until I find the perfect Javits topper of my own.

My striped metallic striped wide brimmed hat

Eric Javits Striped Wide Brim Hat

Until then I can continue in my wardrobe envy of Taryn over at Life of a Paper Doll, who of course does actually have one. 

If you scroll through her earlier posts you might now recognize that little Eric Javits number that pops up every so often, creating the perfect finishing touch on her varying ensembles. One thing to notice is that every outfit is completely different; yet, the hat always fits perfectly in place. That is because calling a hat the "finishing touch" to an outfit is a complete understatement, it often completely dictates the direction of the entire look, and the clothes merely play a supporting role.

Now that you are "Well-Versed" on these terrific toppers, I'm sure you're dying to run out and grab one for yourself. (Insert record scratch here). Ok ok, before I convince you to run off to your local milliner I believe I have some more persuading to do. Tune into the Well-Versed Wardrobe on Wednesday when I debunk a few myths on decking out your dome. It may just change your mind on your next accessory purchase.

Couture's Chameleon- A Closer Look at Marc Jacobs




Marc Jacobs metallic purple bow neck top and Quilted Single bag.

“Fashion is Fickle”… it’s a phrase that’s been uttered for decades, and probably one of the truest statements ever spoken.  Trends come and go season after season, and what’s hot today is not tomorrow.  That picture of you wearing what you thought was the hottest thing to hit the runway five years ago is probably the same picture you feverishly try to hide.  If there was ever a designer to understand this intrinsic quality of fashion, and use it to his complete advantage, it would have to be Marc Jacobs.  The way he has transformed not only himself, but his artistic vision season after season, to always stay one step ahead of the latest trend report, is remarkable. He truly is the fashion industry's resident chameleon.  Whether it is a red carpet occasion, or a weekend at Coachella, you can find a Marc Jacobs design suitable for any occasion.  While Apple may have cornered the “There’s an app for that,” market in technology, in the fashion industry you need look no further than Marc Jacobs to say “There’s a garment for that.”   



Marc Jacobs portrait from Elle Magazine

When being interviewed by Calvin Klein for Harpers Bazaar in 2010 Marc Jacobs said, “…I guess when I look over my shoulder at other designers, I feel like people are so definitive. It’s so clear to me what their aesthetic is, what they’re projecting. And I look at my own work and I think, 'Who could ever decipher what the hell is going on?'”  It is this constantly shifting aesthetic that allows for collections that evolve season after season, reinventing trends, silhouettes, and the face of fashion as we know it. His own ever changing vision is what contributes to  the relevancy of  his own line (which he has sustained since 1986), as well as being able to effortlessly switch gears and provide creative direction for the polar opposite French house, Louis Vuitton, and his diffusion line, Marc by Marc Jacobs.  Hi fashion barometer is always one step ahead of the game.



Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis 1992
That's not flannel... it's silk!

While he may ooze early 90’s grunge one season and whimsy of the 70’s the next there is, believe it or not, a method to the madness.  No matter what decade Jacobs draws his inspiration from he seamlessly combines it with the futuristic insight of a true visionary. He turns the high to low, and then sells it at a high price.  In fact, he is at the helm of two of the world’s most expensive luxury brands, and for good reason.  It is more difficult than you think to make something appear deconstructed, yet maintain the structural integrity and craftsmanship of a true luxury brand. It also takes incredible genius to transform $300-a-yard fabrics into something so “everyday,” i.e. Jacob’s controversial (but his personal favorite) “Grunge” line for Perry Ellis (where he got his start fresh out of Parson’s School of Design in NY) in 1992.  I promise you making silk look like flannel is no easy (or cheap) feat.

Sofia Coppola photographed by Juergen Teller

for Marc Jacobs

Kim Gordon photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs

Victoria Beckham photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs

It is the muses photographed by Juergen Teller over the past 11 years have set the tone for the quintessential Marc Jacobs “look” among the changing tides of the brand’s collections. A look Marc Jacobs has referred to as a girl (girl being the operative word) who is “not a wallflower, exactly, but close to it. Or she’d like people to think she is, in her $4,000 dress and artfully mussed hair… She’s the awkward little sister.” The ground breaking ads featuring Sofia Coppola, Kim Gordon (of Sonic Youth fame,) and Victoria Beckham (though I doubt any of us can picture Posh as an “awkward little sister” she plays the role in the ads quite nicely) have become eternally associated with the brand.  These blown out, over exposed, and down-right gritty images were nothing like the ultra glossy, ultra luxe, and ultra sexy campaigns being run by his peers such as Gucci and Dior at the time.  These images were raw, and quite frankly a little awkward. It was the magical collaboration of Marc’s fashion captured by the lens of Juergen Teller that brought us these new wave campaigns  and reminded us that models were merely props for the clothing, not the other way around, and that being a little creepy, could be really cool.



Dakota Fanning photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs

My personal favorites are the ones of Dakota Fanning, both when she was young and more recently in 2009 for the launch of Jacob’s perfume Lola. The Jacobs/Teller collaboration was a match made in heaven. Teller’s photographic style provided consistency to the brand on the campaign front; resonating season after season in spite of Marc Jacob’s continually shifting inspirations. 

Dakota Fanning photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs "Oh Lola" fragrance

Marc's chameleon like approach reminds me a lot of myself.  I’ve always been a little envious of those girls who have a “signature” style. I’ve also been a little envious of those artists who have a unique singular vision. That one thing they are known for. When it comes to fashion and art, I’ve never been one of those girls. I may wake up one morning and want to dress like a bohemian princess and be inspired by vintage circus performers, and the next I’ll resemble Madonna circa “Like a Virgin” and be inspired by Navajo weaving.  I can’t help it; I’m artistically (and fashionably) fickle.

Marc Jacobs Metallic Purple Camouflage
 Print Top (Fall 2009), Perforated Silk Tank, and Metallic
Lavender Jeans

Marc Jacobs Metallic Purple Camouflage
 Print Top (Fall 2009), Perforated Silk Tank, and Metallic
Lavender Jeans

In today’s case, Marc was taking me back to an era of fashion I was too young to appreciate, that weird late 80’s early 90’s time of over the top silhouettes, bold colors, and shades of denim that made everyday Easter- and I couldn’t have been happier to be there. This is an outfit you can’t help but have fun in.  Special touches like the metallic sheen to the lavender denim, the abstract camouflage print, the way the edges of the attached scarf are cut to give you the perfectly draped point, the perforated texture of the not so basic white tank give the outfit a special touch, and elevate it with a contemporary spin. Oh, and remember how I mentioned his “fashion barometer” being one step ahead of the game? This Lurex button down shirt is from Fall 2009, but look for the shiny material to be one of the big trends of the upcoming fall season.

Click to Enlarge

The bag in particular holds a special place in my heart- it was the first designer handbag I ever purchased. I have been given a few as wonderful gifts, but this was the first one bought with my own money.  The Quilted Single is perfect starter designer bag for your wardrobe. It’s a simple shape, completely functional and eternally classic. The quilting and flap are reminiscent of the iconic Chanel Classic, but the chain detailing that culminates in a delicate leather strap isn’t quite as heavy. The hardware is understated, with no blazing logos to keep it from being too flashy. You have to hold the bag to appreciate the butter-soft leather, its impeccable craftsmanship, and all the luxe ingredients that blend together to make a decadent home for my personal possessions.

Marc Jacobs Quilted Single

I wasn’t the only one who Marc played muse for this week. Coincidentally on the very day I chose to sport my full-out Marc Jacobs ensemble, my co-worker, dear friend, and author of The Life of a Paperdoll, Taryn Antoniou strolled in wearing her Marc By Marc Jacobs trench complete with Marc By Marc Jacobs studded satchel.  Not only did she look absolutely fabulous, she so graciously provided me with the perfect excuse to talk a little bit about his immensely successful diffusion line. 

Taryn in her Marc by Marc trench coat and
Marc by Marc studded satchel

Launched in 2001, it has become one of the most popular contemporary lines in the world, with several stores worldwide and consistently increasing quarterly sales.  All because of Marc Jacobs genius combined with the industry know-how of his long time business partner Robert Duffy.  The two have become a dynamic duo making great fashion, with the ability to sell the hell out of it.  A reasonable price point and incredible sense of kitschy, cliché, humor on top of bold color and design make the label an easy sell.  Marc by Marc Jacobs provides access to the same “street style” look of Marc Jacobs, albeit a little more tongue-in-cheek for a lower price-point.

A strong point of contention among diffusion lines is whether or not by lowering your price points you are also lowering the integrity of the main line.  Why buy a $900 top when you can buy a $200 one possesing the same name? It all comes down to the garments themselves. The Marc by Marc Jacobs line can offer garments at lower price points by using fabrics that are priced less per yard, patterns that are simpler to cut, and processes that are more attuned to mass market than the unique “one of a kind” processes that are associated with couture pieces.  A talented team assembled by Jacobs and Duffy are responsible for creating the collection, while Jacobs oversees and finalizes the end production. This is not to say that the diffusion line sacrifices quality or craftsmanship. While it may not be the astronomical price tags associated with the Marc Jacobs label, you’re still forking over a pretty penny for many of the Marc by Marc branded goods. That’s because the diffusion line places a strong emphasis on maintaining the integrity of its name sake.  Reluctant at first, I’m sure Jacobs doesn’t regret taking Duffy’s advice now that the diffusion label brings in the company’s most revenue!

To see more great photo’s from of Taryn’s Marc by Marc moment and a glimpse into the amazingly stylish life of a paper doll make sure to visit her blog: The Life of a Paper Doll. That also includes any of the male readers I might happen to have: Her Frequently Asked Man Questions section has the potential to become your new style bible.

A Little Announcement

Hello all of my avid weekly readers!

I wanted to make a little announcement to let you all know that with the chaos of the summer months quickly approaching I will be switching my posts to Monday afternoons- a nice little way to start off the work week, and an excuse to stare at something other than excel spreadsheets on your computer.

I also want to thank you all for your support in reading my blog! I love hearing from all of you and I'm always looking for suggestions, so keep the comments coming! If  there is ever a subject you want me to cover, I'll do my best, just send your suggestion to wellversedwardrobe@gmail.com. And remember, check back every Monday for the latest glimpse into my wardrobe, and your weekly dose of well-versed wisdom on the fashion world. 

XOXO,
Coleen

DVF for CMB

I love weddings, especially when my family is involved. They are always filled with love, laughter, and lots of dancing. On Saturday I attended my cousin’s wedding. What an event! The venue was gorgeous (as was the bride of course!) the band was amazing, and the food plentiful.  It was the perfect excuse for an amazing dress to finally come out of the wardrobe and make a fantastic public debut.

I’m pretty sure the entire family started figuring out what they would be wearing to the highly buzzed about wedding the moment their engagement was announced… Ok maybe it was just me. When the invitation read “Black-tie optional “my initial reaction was ecstatic.  What girl doesn’t love a chance to go all out, right? Then the questions started flowing and panic set in.  I definitely go for a long gown right? Is a short dress inappropriate? I don’t want to look like I’m trying to walk a red carpet, but I don’t want to be underdressed.  I was a mess.

Then, as if by magic the Diane von Furstenberg “Tadd” dress entered my life.  The long flowing gown in featherweight chiffon was perfect for a May wedding.  The length, movement, and amazing draping at the neckline and back make this dress incredibly elegant.  The light color, and playful print are understated enough to make me feel like I won’t end up on Fashion Police.  A few added details of my own, such as a tassel belt and a flowered hair piece, and I had my perfect “Black tie optional” look. 

Not to mention, it’s also one of the most amazingly comfortable dresses I’ve ever worn, a key feature for dancing the night away.

 A Diane von Furstenberg dress was the perfect choice for a wedding.  That incredible sense of feminine energy and confidence she infuses into her clothes definitely took over the moment I slipped the dress on. I definitely owe that little extra pep in my dance step to the dress.  OK, OK , maybe having a devastatingly handsome dance partner had something to do with it too.

The celebrated women’s wear designer came to my wardrobe rescue on more than one occasion this month.  DVF’s “Handy” dress in brick red proved handy in deed when I needed a dress for Easter festivities hosted by my bf’s family.  This is the perfect dress for events involving significant members of your significant other’s family. It is fashion forward enough to show you’ve got taste, but not enough so that they think their son has brought home Lady Gaga. The length and silhouette are just covered up enough to be family friendly,  but that glow you get from wearing the perfect dress will make you look that much more special to the special someone you’re really trying to impress.  It’s the ideal dress for poised, yet seemingly effortless dressing. The blousy top and billowy sleeves keep you comfortable, not constricted. Yet, the drop waist elongates your trunk making you look longer and leaner without needed to squeeze into a form fitting dress. To top it off, there are pockets hidden on either side of the pleating at the waist. Every dress is better with pockets.

It’s that unique pleating that really makes this dress though; it is truly an eye-catching detail. It’s also this type of detailing that will contribute the price of a garment.  This dress is the same price as the one I wore to the wedding, yet it has significantly less fabric, no underpinning, and no print. This is because pleating is an intricate and meticulous process that is mostly done by hand. It takes a skilled hand to execute pleating like this, and in these locations, yet still have the surrounding areas lay so perfectly flat.

It’s this incredible attention to detail, these subtle nuances, that make both of these DVF pieces great wardrobe assets. They are versatile, effortless, go-to pieces when you need to feel like a million bucks. In any creative field, you always leave a little piece of yourself in everything you produce. In Diane von Furstenberg’s case, her liveliness and remarkable self-confidence are woven into the very fabric of her clothes.  It maybe just because I appreciate the intense zest for life I know the designer herself possesses, but when I put these pieces on I feel like a little bit of that is transferred to me. And let’s be honest, the perfect accessory to every outfit is confidence.

The American Dream of a European Princess

I first want to apoligize for the delay in my post this week, it has been a rather eventful one.  I had the lovely wedding of my cousin Devin and his new wife Linn to attend. It just so happens that the desinger I'm focusing on today happened to be my designer of choice for the wedding (more on this tomorrow). Thank you Devin and Linn for providing an INCREDIBLE venue to not only wear an  amazing dress but to have a wonderful time doing it.  Now.... before we break into my wardrobe, I'd like to tell you a story...

The American dream is a lofty one, but from time to time a few great examples present themselves reassuring us that it is in fact an attainable one.  Take for instance, the story of Diane von Furstenberg.  The next few paragraphs may read more like a plot in a novel than a biography, but such was the life of the fascinating Belgian born women’s wear icon.

Act I: Diane Simone Michelle Halfin was born in Belgium, attended boarding school in Britain and later studied at the University of Geneva.  She was a social butterfly with a commanding presence. By the age of 18 Diane had even won the affection of a Prince.

Enter: Egon von Furstenberg, Prince of Germany.  The two wed in 1969, and Diane changed locations again settling down in New York City, Egon’s permanent residence.  The young socialite quickly found herself among the most exclusive circles of the New York elite and became a Studio 54 regular.  Diane was not content simply being a Princess, however. She was determined to have her own paycheck and her own identity.  She needed to prove that she didn’t need the wealth or title of her husband to succeed.  So, she did simply that.

Enter: The wrap dress, Diane’s claim to fame and eternal financial stability. The approximate 3 yards of jersey with no buttons or zippers  lead her to the hearts of women everywhere (over 5 million of them to be exact),  the cover of Newsweek magazine, and the  leader of a brand she built from the ground up, on her own… all before the age of 30.

Dissolve to: Diane the hiatus years.  Life in the fast lane took its toll on von Furstenberg.  By 1985, with her marriage over, 2 young children, and a company that was growing wildly (and through licensing, out of her control) she had had enough.  Diane retreated to Paris, France.  Though she was no longer dominating the streets of New York’s fashion scene, she still had her work cut out for her. She spent her time focusing on being a mother, starting a publishing house, and writing a book.  Although Diane herself was no longer a main feature in the media, her fashion had not left the limelight.  The next generation of fashionistas the world over began scouring vintage shops for signature DVF wears. Inspiring new faces wearing her classic designs reignited a fire in Diane.

Act II: Diane conquers the Meat Packing District and the fashion industry once again. In 1997 Diane set up her new headquarters on West 14^th Street in the newly trendy Meat Packing District.  She fell in love with the area, and continues to actively help support the local community.  As recent as April 29, 2011 she was awarded the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Medal by the Municipal Art Society of New York for her efforts to revitalize the district.  One thing that didn’t need a lot of help revitalizing- the DVF name among the glitterati. Wave after wave of “it girls” made sure of that. It is no surprise that Michelle Obama, the ultimately empowered woman, has chosen DVF frocks on several occasions. In fact, it was the dress that started it all for Diane, was the same dress that Michelle Obama wore in a Christmas card sent out by the First Family in 2009. Some 30 years later that same dress was still the emblem of empowered women everywhere.

Image from Net-A-Porter.com

Image from net-a-porter.com

Cut to: Diane today, current President of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America), wife once more (to former Paramount CEO Barry Diller) and grandmother. A woman of 75 whose fierce confidence and vivaciousness could give any socialite in her 20’s a run for their money.  She is a woman whose life experiences have made her strong, confident, and one fabulous designer. She may not have started out in fashion, but she clearly demonstrates she knows her way around a dress and possesses an extraordinary ability to inspire power, confidence, and beauty in anyone who wears them.  Her passion for surfacing these qualities in women doesn’t just stop with her clothing. Diane has made it her philanthropic mission to empower women from all over the world.  In 2010 she even started the annual DVF awards which honor female humanitarians. With the vitality and zest for life von Furstenberg possesses I don’t think I’ll be writing an “End Scene” to Diane’s impact on the fashion industry and women the world over anytime soon.

Check in tomorrow to see how DVF plays out in my own wardrobe....