Gucci: Made in Italy

As I mentioned earlier this week, a recent Gucci trunk show got me thinking a lot. Not only did it remind me of that sheer trend i'm loving right now, but it also reminded me that this is a brand with some serious history. While most of us know the Gucci that the Tom Ford built in the 90's that is one of today's leading luxury brands (or a brand name thrown out quite frequently in various rap songs), Gucci is actually a brand built on a solid 90 year history with a legacy of sophistication and craftsmanship. The Italian power house of the luxury goods industry has locked in its fair share of instantly identifiable hallmarks of the brand. This recognition has also made it one of the most sought after brands in the world (actually in 2007 the Nielsen Company named them THE most desirable luxury brand in the world).

Whether it be the iconic horsebit, diamonte pattern, interlocking GG's, "The Web" (that bold green red green stripe), or bamboo details they have all come to embody a brad that is deep rooted in history, heritage and legacy.  And we all know, those are icon's that have also made the brand incredibly susceptible to knock offs. And while it may be easy to score a bag or wallet in the back room of a canal street store that looks remarkably close to the real thing.... that made in China purchase won't contain that signature "Made in Italy" craftsmanship that Gucci is renowned for.... and what accounts for its sometimes astronomical price tags.

Maintaining a dedication to locale and quality comes at a price, but as brands like Gucci can vouch for, it's a price that people are willing to pay, and I'm sure the entire city of Florence (Where the company was founded by Guccio Gucci in 1921) is thankful for that.  In Italy alone, the Gucci Group employs over 45,000 people. It's the  same Italian techniques that have come to define the impeccable quality of the brand, and have gone unchanged in their 90 year history.  That Italian dedication to craftsmanship is the very reason Guccio Gucci decided to start his business in Florence (He actually was inspired to create his own luxury leather goods shop     while admiring the luggage he encountered on a daily basis as a bell hop at The Savoy in London, where his family  had immigrated to sometime earlier).  It wasn't luggage though that started the business and gained him his strongest clientele. It was in fact, saddle bags and the illustrious world of equestrian.... hence all of the Gucci icons being equine related.  Actually, there is something unique about all of those little icons... I'll break it down simply:

Bamboo: While most people instantly think horsebit, or interlocking GG's when they think Gucci, bamboo was actually the first of the Gucci icons.  Introduced in the 1947 wartime shortages made it too difficult to get traditional materials.  Natural fibers like hemp linen and jute became the materials of choice, and the burnished bamboo was the perfect accompaniment. The fact that the curvy shape was reminiscent of a saddle fit right in with the then-clientele's aesthetic, and remains a fan favorite to this day.

The Diamante Pattern: Also a result of wartime shortages, the diamante pattern, small dark brown diamonds criss-crossing a tan background was the first of the house's signature prints. Developed in the 30's the diamond pattern was woven into hemp and used for luggage.  While its something we see on almost a daily basis in the bigger cities, this was actually widely unused except through the 50's. It wasn't until current Creative Director Frida Giannini discovered it in the archives that it made a resurgence is an increasingly popular fabrication.

The Web: The bold green red green stripe was introduced in the 1950's and was inspired by the traditional saddle girth (the strap that kept the saddle snuggly fit to the horse's back). It happens to be the centerpiece of one of Gucci's most iconic bag... The Jackie O (The bag was named after the first lady after she was seen photographed carrying the bag on several occasions while working as an editor for Doubleday). More than 60 years later the web can still be found on countless items from sunglasses to bags and sometime in novelty contrasting colors.

The Horsebit: In 1953 the horsebit that had been used to detail heavy saddle bags earlier in the decade was miniaturized to adorn the top of a supple men's leather loafer.  The rest is history.  Ever since the horsebit has been the icon of choice Gucci brand and been used as detailing on handbags, shoes, clothing, jewelry and more.   In the 1980's the Gucci moccasin with horsebit detail entered the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Arts Costume Institute.

Interlocking GG's:  The 60's also saw the introduction of the interlocking GG logo, and it's been prominently displayed by the the upper echelon the world over ever since.  The initials of its founder Guccio Gucci have been used together has fastenings for bags, buckles on belts and a million and one other things.  In the 50 plus years of its existance it has undergone many transformations, being rendered in metal, burned into velvet, squared off or to form a perfect circle.  No matter which shape it takes, the GG's still remain instatly recognizable.

As for me, my own designer shoe history starts with Gucci.  It was these turquoise ballet flats with modified horsebit detailing that were the first to enter my collection... they were my designer shoe gateway drug if you will.  They are a great example of Gucci's current direction.... a dedication to heritage while striving for modernity.