Home Sweet Home

If I may, I'm going to digress for a day or two.  You all know I'm getting married, and that my sisters wedding is only a few weeks away. All of this wedding stuff has been all consuming for the past few weeks so I'm going to take a moment to write about it. (This may be more like "vent about it" I should warn you).

I had made plans to go home this weekend to take care of a few routine errands: get the car inspected, do laundry, and as a plus tackle a few wedding plans. As the wedding approaches a mere 6 months away (!!!!) I figured it was time to actually get myself in gear and cross some things off my list. Well, there's nothing like a huge oversight on your part to light that fire to get get you going. 

For those of you who don't know, I'm from a pretty small town in upstate NY. When I say pretty small I mean every bit of it.  Surprisingly enough, we happen to have 10 hotels within a 5 mile radius for what seems like no tourists. Why on earth would a town have so many hotels then right? It would be because one time of year (and one time of year only) the population of my town nearly triples.  What epic event could possibly bring that many people in?? Well, I thought it would be my wedding but it is in fact NASCAR... yes you read that right. A Jumpsuit wearing, "I wanna go fast" NASCAR race that is held in the outskirts of my town has every hotel even 3 towns over completely booked more than a year and half in advance.

I some how managed to book my wedding the same weekend...Its ok, you should be laughing at me at this point.

After a few frantic phone calls, a few tears, and several hours of driving, I'm confident the crisis has been averted. With a little bit of logistical maneuvering It seems like everything will be ok.... fingers crossed.  I'm praying that this is the one big thing that will inevitably go wrong with the wedding planning process. If I got that out of the way now with this, I will be completely happy.  On top of figuring that out, I set myself up to cross several more things off my list over the next two weeks or so, so I'm feeling much much better about the whole situation. 

And since it's killing me not to be able to talk about what I'm wearing at the wedding, I'll take this opportunity to talk a little about where I'm getting married. 

The ceremony will be in the church I grew up in. I've always loved how beautifully ornate my church was. Even if it was just a small church in a small town, every time I walked in there it made me feel like I was in a fancy basilica.  It means a lot to me that I get to start my future somewhere that played such a big part in my past.

Our reception is almost on the complete opposite end of the spectrum.  It's an antique dairy  barn practically in the middle of no where. On the many drives Joe and I would make crossing Western NY to the Southern Tier barns like these are scattered left and right in between our two houses. Having the reception in this space almost feels like meeting in the middle. (Can you tell I'm a Cancer who attaches sentimental value to everything, haha)..

Now that wedding planning is a reality I've never been more simultaneously stressed and excited.... I'm sure this isn't the last you'll hear of it.

Millinery Myths

As promised from my post on Monday, I'd like to take the opportunity to dispell a few myths that may make you a little apprehensive about joining the hat wave. Let's just jump right in... head first... pun intended.

MYTH 1: "I'm not a hat person."

Au contraire my friend, EVERYONE can be a hat person, just not everyone can wear every hat. You don't have to be Audrey Hepburn to pull of a great headpiece (though she could rock a hat like no other).

Just like anything else in fashion, there are shapes, sizes, fits, and colors that are meant for you, and a lot that are not- you just have to find your perfect match.  I think of wearing hats much like buying sunglasses. Different proportions, different colors, and different shapes suit different faces. When buying sunglasses, the general rule of thumb is to go for styles that are the opposite of your face shape. The same thing goes for hats. Round and square face shapes are slimmed down by wide brims that add both width and height to the top of the head. Asymmetrical styles also break up the continuity of perfect circles and squares by dipping into the frame of the face.

Longer faces tend to look best in the clean lines of a flat brimmed hat.

Taryn from Life of a Paperdoll

This may sound like I completely contradicted myself, but you'll notice the lines the brim creates when you put the hat on. The wide brim of a floppy hat ends up reading more like a thin wavy line from straight on, while the flat brim of a fedora ends up looking like a wider circle... hence the opposition of the face.

No matter what face shape you have there are some important things to remember when picking out a hat. First, the crown of the hat should never be narrower than your cheek bones. If you're wondering why the picture of Molly Sims below looks a little off- that's why.

Molly Simms at the Kentucky Derby
The crown that is more narrow than her cheekbones
makes for a not so flattering hat.

Secondly, The brim of your hat should be proportionate to your shoulders. Broader shoulders can handle wider brims, tiny petite frames should refrain from getting swallowed by over the top styles. Lastly, it goes without saying- fit is key! It shouldn't be so tight where your head is squished into it (this can damage your hair!) but snug enough so that it won't blow away at the slightest hint of wind.

My best point of advice- You have to try them on! Even if you make a huge joke out of it with your friends at the department store, try on every style (and there are hundreds!) and see what suits you. I'm sure you'll fall in love with one... or several.

MYTH 2: Hats are meant for hiding.

This one, in case you haven't noticed from the previous pictures, debunks itself.  Hats (baseball caps excluded), add mystery to your look. They definitely don't make you disappear. Hats on women in the U.S. have become so far and few between in everyday life that while you may feel incognito beneath the brim of a floppy hat, I guarantee everyone else notices you- but in a good way. The hat, especially now, is making a resurgence as the young fashionista's greatest accessory. It's a piece that says you're not afraid to step outside of the box, and get noticed for it. They can actually make you look more confident, flirty, and polished.  Wearing a hat can be a bold move, but if done right one you won’t regret.  Jeanine Larmoth (former copy editor at Harpers Bazaar) put it best:

"A hat is a shameless flatterer, calling attention to an escaping curl, a tawny braid, a sprinkling of freckles over a pert nose, directing the eye to what is most unique about a face.  Its curves emphasize a shining pair of eyes, a lofty forehead; its deep brim accentuates the pale tint of a cheek, creates an aura of prettiness, and suggests a mystery that awakens curiosity in the onlooker. "

Now, I should point out, that wearing a hat that is fresh, young, and fashion forward does not mean you need a headpiece worthy of Lady Gaga attention. I can't stress enough, that for your everyday trend-setter this couldn't be further from the truth.  While the songstress' works of art are breath taking, they are showpieces, not every day wear. And, while we've all been fascinated by the fascinators that debuted at the Royal Wedding, most of those are best reserved for fanciful fetes (how’s that for alliteration).

Myth 3:  Actual Hats are the only items that can appropriately cover your head.

As you may have noticed, my most favorite accessory actually happens to be the scarf.  One of the many reasons (that is a whole post for a later time) this simple piece of fabric is my fashion best friend is its versatility. Not only does it look great draped around your neck, it also does wonders wrapped around your head. Giorgio Armani's Spring 2011 runway show was a perfect example of just how many ways there are to use a scarf as a head covering, and look totally chic while doing it.

The headscarf has its place beyond the runway as well, and can be the perfect solution to those humid summer days when it's simply too hot to wear a hat, and your hair just cannot be tamed (which is often the case with my uncontrollable lion's mane). Again, if you're face is a perfect circle like mine, wrap the scarf around your head and tie it off to the side with a little bow or knot. Don't forget to add a large pair of dark rectangular sunglasses. Not only will you look like a 1950’s starlet on her way to/from the beach, but the whole look will actually make your jaw line appear narrower than your brow.

A leopard printed scarf to tame my lion's mane

The turban look is a great way to go if you have a longer, narrow, more oblong shaped face. Celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe has often been spotted in this look, as has Sarah Jessica Parker. 

Rachel Zoe in a turban

Sarah Jessica Parker wearing a turban

And for anyone with any face shape, if you're having one of those hair days for which there is absolutely no help, you can always use your scarf to pull off the "old Hollywood Barbie running off to her convertable" look.

Hopefully now I’ve changed your mind about decking out your dome, and you aren't even reading this last part because you're grabbing your purse and car keys (or more likely beginning a rampant online search) to make the hat your newest favorite accessory.

Still not convinced? Let me know, I'll find a way to make a believer of you yet.

A Bit of Millinery on Memorial Day

My summer uniform: floppy hat, cropped top,
high waisted maxi skirt & sandals.
(You'll have to excuse my wrinkly skirt, it was a busy day)

Nothing says it’s the start of summer to me quite like a floppy hat and sandals. With Memorial Day being the unofficial start to summer, it’s time to take those warm weather staples out of hibernation.

Hats on a woman in a America seem to be a thing of the past, they often only make appearances earlier in the month at Churchill Downs (I'm talking about the Kentucky Derby of course). I think it’s high time we took a cue from our friends across the pond and extend our headgear beyond a day with the ponies.

My hat of choice, being wide brimmed and moderately floppy, is a well known favorite of Derby attendees and has actually been around for centuries. It's the perfect accessory for long days in the sun. The material is light weight and breathable, it’s also pliable letting you bend and manipulate the folds and waves of the brim to perfectly shield your brow from the changing angles of the sun’s rays. Not to mention it lets you cover just enough of your face to give that extra bit of coy mysterious-ness.

This hat, just like many of the others you find today is actually made of paper straw, not real straw.  Shantung paper (that is generally made of Manila hemp plant fibers) is rolled into yarn to simulate straw. It is actually more resilient, and easier to manipulate than real straw. It also accepts dyes better, allowing for more vibrant colors. The use of paper straw to make hats became widely popular in the mid 1900's when real Panama straw (used of course to make the most famous of straw hats, the "Panama hat") became scarce. Now, paper straw constitutes 65% of the straw hat market.

Traditional Panama Hats

Straw (or what resembles straw) hats have come a long way over the decades. They have evolved not only in shape and size ranging from traditional to avant garde, but also in the materials used to produce a quality product. Paper straw has cornered the market for so long because of its ready availability, durability, and cost effectiveness... but of course there must be something out there that's a bit more luxurious than paper and a bit more transportable (while fairly pliable paper straw hats can still loose their shape if not handled with care). The ability to pack a hat is an essential quality for the warm weather jet-setter. If you think about it, whether you are a regular globetrotter or a more infrequent traveler most of us only bring out our hats when gearing up for vacation! How had no one thought of this sooner??  One of America's most well known hat designers (or if you really want to sound well-versed, milliner), Eric Javits, saw a niche in the market. He realized a need for a high-end straw sun hat that could be packed for travel without cracking or losing its shape.

Thus, Javits invented what is now coined the "Squishee" hat: a hat that resembles the look of straw but can easily be packed, squished, and crushed and bounce back to its original shape. Squishee is the actual trademarked name of the material used to create the hats (now also a full line of handbags and shoes.) It is a super resilient blend of  manmade fibers that are squished and crushed several times before they are woven (in a braided fashion) together to make the hat, thus increasing its flexibility after final production.  Eric Javits also produced a line of hats made from this material that have a 50+ UPF rating, providing maximum UVA/UVB protection. (A reason why these toppers cost around $325).

Leighton Meester wearing an Eric Javits Squishee hat
on the set of Gossip Girl

It’s no surprise that with his ultra functional materials combined with strong sense of fashion Eric Javits has become a regular name among the hat wearing elite.  His designs can be found adorning the heads of everyone from Britney Spears, Zoe Saldana, to Hillary Clinton...even Kim Kardashian.

I can't help but point out, that Kim reminds me of another of my favorite fedora wearing femme-fatales- Carmen Sandiego... I mean that in the best way possible.  Maybe it’s just me?

While not one of his creations, that's why I love my metallic striped number because reminds me of one of his creations. It will do just nicely until I find the perfect Javits topper of my own.

My striped metallic striped wide brimmed hat

Eric Javits Striped Wide Brim Hat

Until then I can continue in my wardrobe envy of Taryn over at Life of a Paper Doll, who of course does actually have one. 

If you scroll through her earlier posts you might now recognize that little Eric Javits number that pops up every so often, creating the perfect finishing touch on her varying ensembles. One thing to notice is that every outfit is completely different; yet, the hat always fits perfectly in place. That is because calling a hat the "finishing touch" to an outfit is a complete understatement, it often completely dictates the direction of the entire look, and the clothes merely play a supporting role.

Now that you are "Well-Versed" on these terrific toppers, I'm sure you're dying to run out and grab one for yourself. (Insert record scratch here). Ok ok, before I convince you to run off to your local milliner I believe I have some more persuading to do. Tune into the Well-Versed Wardrobe on Wednesday when I debunk a few myths on decking out your dome. It may just change your mind on your next accessory purchase.

Couture's Chameleon- A Closer Look at Marc Jacobs




Marc Jacobs metallic purple bow neck top and Quilted Single bag.

“Fashion is Fickle”… it’s a phrase that’s been uttered for decades, and probably one of the truest statements ever spoken.  Trends come and go season after season, and what’s hot today is not tomorrow.  That picture of you wearing what you thought was the hottest thing to hit the runway five years ago is probably the same picture you feverishly try to hide.  If there was ever a designer to understand this intrinsic quality of fashion, and use it to his complete advantage, it would have to be Marc Jacobs.  The way he has transformed not only himself, but his artistic vision season after season, to always stay one step ahead of the latest trend report, is remarkable. He truly is the fashion industry's resident chameleon.  Whether it is a red carpet occasion, or a weekend at Coachella, you can find a Marc Jacobs design suitable for any occasion.  While Apple may have cornered the “There’s an app for that,” market in technology, in the fashion industry you need look no further than Marc Jacobs to say “There’s a garment for that.”   



Marc Jacobs portrait from Elle Magazine

When being interviewed by Calvin Klein for Harpers Bazaar in 2010 Marc Jacobs said, “…I guess when I look over my shoulder at other designers, I feel like people are so definitive. It’s so clear to me what their aesthetic is, what they’re projecting. And I look at my own work and I think, 'Who could ever decipher what the hell is going on?'”  It is this constantly shifting aesthetic that allows for collections that evolve season after season, reinventing trends, silhouettes, and the face of fashion as we know it. His own ever changing vision is what contributes to  the relevancy of  his own line (which he has sustained since 1986), as well as being able to effortlessly switch gears and provide creative direction for the polar opposite French house, Louis Vuitton, and his diffusion line, Marc by Marc Jacobs.  Hi fashion barometer is always one step ahead of the game.



Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis 1992
That's not flannel... it's silk!

While he may ooze early 90’s grunge one season and whimsy of the 70’s the next there is, believe it or not, a method to the madness.  No matter what decade Jacobs draws his inspiration from he seamlessly combines it with the futuristic insight of a true visionary. He turns the high to low, and then sells it at a high price.  In fact, he is at the helm of two of the world’s most expensive luxury brands, and for good reason.  It is more difficult than you think to make something appear deconstructed, yet maintain the structural integrity and craftsmanship of a true luxury brand. It also takes incredible genius to transform $300-a-yard fabrics into something so “everyday,” i.e. Jacob’s controversial (but his personal favorite) “Grunge” line for Perry Ellis (where he got his start fresh out of Parson’s School of Design in NY) in 1992.  I promise you making silk look like flannel is no easy (or cheap) feat.

Sofia Coppola photographed by Juergen Teller

for Marc Jacobs

Kim Gordon photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs

Victoria Beckham photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs

It is the muses photographed by Juergen Teller over the past 11 years have set the tone for the quintessential Marc Jacobs “look” among the changing tides of the brand’s collections. A look Marc Jacobs has referred to as a girl (girl being the operative word) who is “not a wallflower, exactly, but close to it. Or she’d like people to think she is, in her $4,000 dress and artfully mussed hair… She’s the awkward little sister.” The ground breaking ads featuring Sofia Coppola, Kim Gordon (of Sonic Youth fame,) and Victoria Beckham (though I doubt any of us can picture Posh as an “awkward little sister” she plays the role in the ads quite nicely) have become eternally associated with the brand.  These blown out, over exposed, and down-right gritty images were nothing like the ultra glossy, ultra luxe, and ultra sexy campaigns being run by his peers such as Gucci and Dior at the time.  These images were raw, and quite frankly a little awkward. It was the magical collaboration of Marc’s fashion captured by the lens of Juergen Teller that brought us these new wave campaigns  and reminded us that models were merely props for the clothing, not the other way around, and that being a little creepy, could be really cool.



Dakota Fanning photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs

My personal favorites are the ones of Dakota Fanning, both when she was young and more recently in 2009 for the launch of Jacob’s perfume Lola. The Jacobs/Teller collaboration was a match made in heaven. Teller’s photographic style provided consistency to the brand on the campaign front; resonating season after season in spite of Marc Jacob’s continually shifting inspirations. 

Dakota Fanning photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs "Oh Lola" fragrance

Marc's chameleon like approach reminds me a lot of myself.  I’ve always been a little envious of those girls who have a “signature” style. I’ve also been a little envious of those artists who have a unique singular vision. That one thing they are known for. When it comes to fashion and art, I’ve never been one of those girls. I may wake up one morning and want to dress like a bohemian princess and be inspired by vintage circus performers, and the next I’ll resemble Madonna circa “Like a Virgin” and be inspired by Navajo weaving.  I can’t help it; I’m artistically (and fashionably) fickle.

Marc Jacobs Metallic Purple Camouflage
 Print Top (Fall 2009), Perforated Silk Tank, and Metallic
Lavender Jeans

Marc Jacobs Metallic Purple Camouflage
 Print Top (Fall 2009), Perforated Silk Tank, and Metallic
Lavender Jeans

In today’s case, Marc was taking me back to an era of fashion I was too young to appreciate, that weird late 80’s early 90’s time of over the top silhouettes, bold colors, and shades of denim that made everyday Easter- and I couldn’t have been happier to be there. This is an outfit you can’t help but have fun in.  Special touches like the metallic sheen to the lavender denim, the abstract camouflage print, the way the edges of the attached scarf are cut to give you the perfectly draped point, the perforated texture of the not so basic white tank give the outfit a special touch, and elevate it with a contemporary spin. Oh, and remember how I mentioned his “fashion barometer” being one step ahead of the game? This Lurex button down shirt is from Fall 2009, but look for the shiny material to be one of the big trends of the upcoming fall season.

Click to Enlarge

The bag in particular holds a special place in my heart- it was the first designer handbag I ever purchased. I have been given a few as wonderful gifts, but this was the first one bought with my own money.  The Quilted Single is perfect starter designer bag for your wardrobe. It’s a simple shape, completely functional and eternally classic. The quilting and flap are reminiscent of the iconic Chanel Classic, but the chain detailing that culminates in a delicate leather strap isn’t quite as heavy. The hardware is understated, with no blazing logos to keep it from being too flashy. You have to hold the bag to appreciate the butter-soft leather, its impeccable craftsmanship, and all the luxe ingredients that blend together to make a decadent home for my personal possessions.

Marc Jacobs Quilted Single

I wasn’t the only one who Marc played muse for this week. Coincidentally on the very day I chose to sport my full-out Marc Jacobs ensemble, my co-worker, dear friend, and author of The Life of a Paperdoll, Taryn Antoniou strolled in wearing her Marc By Marc Jacobs trench complete with Marc By Marc Jacobs studded satchel.  Not only did she look absolutely fabulous, she so graciously provided me with the perfect excuse to talk a little bit about his immensely successful diffusion line. 

Taryn in her Marc by Marc trench coat and
Marc by Marc studded satchel

Launched in 2001, it has become one of the most popular contemporary lines in the world, with several stores worldwide and consistently increasing quarterly sales.  All because of Marc Jacobs genius combined with the industry know-how of his long time business partner Robert Duffy.  The two have become a dynamic duo making great fashion, with the ability to sell the hell out of it.  A reasonable price point and incredible sense of kitschy, cliché, humor on top of bold color and design make the label an easy sell.  Marc by Marc Jacobs provides access to the same “street style” look of Marc Jacobs, albeit a little more tongue-in-cheek for a lower price-point.

A strong point of contention among diffusion lines is whether or not by lowering your price points you are also lowering the integrity of the main line.  Why buy a $900 top when you can buy a $200 one possesing the same name? It all comes down to the garments themselves. The Marc by Marc Jacobs line can offer garments at lower price points by using fabrics that are priced less per yard, patterns that are simpler to cut, and processes that are more attuned to mass market than the unique “one of a kind” processes that are associated with couture pieces.  A talented team assembled by Jacobs and Duffy are responsible for creating the collection, while Jacobs oversees and finalizes the end production. This is not to say that the diffusion line sacrifices quality or craftsmanship. While it may not be the astronomical price tags associated with the Marc Jacobs label, you’re still forking over a pretty penny for many of the Marc by Marc branded goods. That’s because the diffusion line places a strong emphasis on maintaining the integrity of its name sake.  Reluctant at first, I’m sure Jacobs doesn’t regret taking Duffy’s advice now that the diffusion label brings in the company’s most revenue!

To see more great photo’s from of Taryn’s Marc by Marc moment and a glimpse into the amazingly stylish life of a paper doll make sure to visit her blog: The Life of a Paper Doll. That also includes any of the male readers I might happen to have: Her Frequently Asked Man Questions section has the potential to become your new style bible.