Showing posts with label New York Fashion Designers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York Fashion Designers. Show all posts

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Nomadic Style with Nanette Lepore

I haven't quite settled back into life after my excursion around the world. For the most part, it's gone back to normal, aside from all of the additional planning that still has me running all over New England. There is nothing worse for me than coming back from vacation.  Don't get me wrong, I love home. I love being home, and being with every that comes with. But I hate leaving a places that are so inspiring, that you planned for so long to get to, and then in a few short days they fly right by.  Be it the Grand Canyon, Bali, or even Buffalo, I hate saying goodbye.


So, this week I thought I'd talk about a designer whose love for travel has inspired her unique style- Nanette Lepore.  I have often been referred to as "bohemian" in my style, and I would agree, there is definitely that influence there. Nanette on the other hand takes that to a whole new level, to a place where the free spirit meets luxury, where design meets art.  
Nanette Lepore with her daughter Violet
at the end of a runway show.
The stylistic direction in which Lepore has taken her company can be seen in her past.  Raised by an abstract painter father, and super-stylish mother in Youngstown Ohio, she spent her summers traversing Route 66. Having tasted a nomadic life so early on, her free spirit and taste for travel only grew stronger.  After attending Youngstown University, relocating to New York to attend FIT, numerous hours in others studios, and a $5k loan from her father, Nanette Lepore finally set up shop on her own in 1992.
Nanette Lepore Fall 2011  image from Style.com

Nanette Lepore Resort 2012  image from Style.com

Nanette Lepore Spring 2012  image from Style.com

Ever since that bohemian spirit and sense of nostalgia has been infused into her clothes and designs making her prints, silhouettes, and intricate embellishments instantly recognizable. Her widespread availability and contemporary price points make it easily attainable to boot. 

Nanette Lepore "Loveable Spots" blouse
This "Lovable Spots" blouse by the brand from my own wardrobe is a great example of her fun, flirty style that is remarkably feminine, without taking yourself too seriously.  It has a great 1940's pin up feel too it while still being modern.  The unique wrap of the top is flattering and functional all at the same time, it makes the blouse fit your body perfectly. The nicest thing about this top though, is the silk.  It's remarkably soft and luxurious, and so easy to move around in.  It lets my so called "free spirit" be free.

Nanette Lepore "Loveable Spots" blouse

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

A Quarter Century and Lofty Aspirations: Shipley & Halmos is Only Appropriate

The time between my last post and now has been filled with several celebrations.  I celebrated a quarter century of existence while our country celebrated its 235th birthday.  (I guess relatively speaking, I’m still a baby).  Keeping with the July 4th weekend, the Paperdoll herself, Taryn and Lesa took me over to the American Girl store for lunch, including the doll who sat in the chair next to me, fake whip cream cake, and embarrassing birthday stickers and song that you could hear across the entire store. It was amazing.  

Later that night, we continued the celebration with good music, good friends, and a few good drinks. While I was so excited to do all of those things, I was equally as excited to  enjoy a perfect summer evening and even hit the beach (if for only a few short moments) in a perfect summer dress.  I had been counting down the days that week not until my birthday, but until I could finally wear this dress.
Every now and then (particularly on your birthday, no matter how old you are) a girl wants to feel like a… well, girl. Not just any girl- a floating, ethereal princess with the slightest hint of audacity  to put a little muscle behind that newly acquired “I’m older, if only by a few hours” swagger.  Shipley & Halmos’ Nomad Cascade dress fits that bill to a T. Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos, the co-designers of the label, have said they feel that, “clothing should never be a disguise, but rather as a means to reflect honestly the character of the wearer.” In my case,  (for that day at least) that happened to be whimsical, playful, and maybe even a little bit cheeky- all embodied in the dress with its soft perforated leather top attached to a delicate flowing skirt with asymmetrical hem and open back detailing.  The abstract burlap pattern in varying shades of sand, rose, and desert rock flows over the cascading layers of silk creating subtle layers of intricacy as you stroll across the sand, waltz down Newbury St… or take things to a more rock star level… clearly the perfect birthday dress.

Shipley & Halmos though a relatively young company has already established a strong foothold in the industry.  Their unique vision, sense of style, and approach to business has already earned the duo the inaugural Young Designer Award from the National Arts Club in 2008 and a nomination in 2009 for the GQ/CFDA Best New Designer Award. These accolades come with good merit.  Shipley & Halmos has earned a reputation for clothing that is smart, warm (in an inviting kind of way, not temperature) and somewhat indefinable (from a style label standpoint…  not surprising given their many inspirations), yet consistently delivering a thoughtfulness in design where form marries function, laced with attention to (often tongue-in-cheek) detail.
Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos (from the Shiply & Halmos Website)
The Shipley & Halmos story goes back a little further than 2007 though. Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos met in Boulder, Colorado while at college. They have been friends and business partners ever since. (Their first venture was the company Trovata which they co-founded with two other college friends).  They moved first to California while developing the Trovata brand and apparent love for Mexican food.  The pair decided to sacrifice their favorite burritos and beaches for studio space on Canal and Green St. in New York City a year later when they started Shipley & Halmos. Starting off in men’s wear, they are now so much more than a fashion line. They are makers of “things crafted with hand, health, and heart” (as their label reads). These “things” include books, art supplies, and even furniture.
The Shipley & Halmos label as it appears on my dress
Image from the Shipley & Halmos Wesbite
They are currently my latest obsession. There have been a few companies in my short professional life that have made such an impression on me, in a way that I have said, “It doesn’t matter in what capacity, but I would love, love, love to work for them just because of what they stand for.”  Shipley & Halmos is one of those companies.  They have such an amazing creative vision that really covers the gamut. From clothing to print media, to music their inspiration is limitless, and they aren’t afraid to dabble into everything.  You’ve heard me talk before about how I feel like I’m creatively… let’s say “eclectic,” and Shipley & Halmos is a testament to how great doing a little bit of everything can be.  I would say take a quick look at their website, but I can almost guarantee you’ll be sucked in for hours on end like I continually am. It’s definitely one of the coolest websites by not only any fashion label, but in general.  To get the privilege of working with these guys is definitely now on my long list of lofty aspirations… but for now I’ll settle for celebrating my birthday with them in style and spirit.

Monday, June 27, 2011

Rag & Bone

As of late I seem to be going through a bit of a quarter life crisis. I keep feeling like I should have accomplished so much more by now, but what exactly that is has totally evaded me.  Career wise I couldn’t be happier. I have a job I absolutely love, but when you ask me about next steps, I currently have no idea what that entails.  So, with my completely unnecessary anxiety welling up, I figured I would take this week to look at two guys who actually figured out what their passion was (even if later in life) and actually built their own opportunities surrounding it.  I’m talking about the creators of the New York based fashion label Rag & Bone.

While the Rag & Bone story officially started in 2002, it unofficially goes back much, much longer than that. Marcus Wainright and David Neville the company's co-owners and co-creative directors actually met in boarding school in the Berkshires (they are in fact British, and very proud of it).  Their friendship blossomed after sometime in Portugal before entering University where they worked at the same bar.  The two went to different Universities and studied different things yet still remained close friends.
This is where my appreciation for the Rag & Bone story comes in.  Contrary to what you may expect, neither of the English blokes attended Central Saint Martins (As you might expect of any well known British designer). Neither even studied fashion! In fact, it wasn’t even on their radar. Marcus ended up setting up his own telecom company after graduation, and David went into investment banking. 

It was only a matter of time before Marcus became fed up with London’s notorious weather, and set his sights on much warmer Mexico.  There, he met his wife and the couple made New York their permanent home (so much for escaping the weather!) Now, the Rag & Bone wheels start turning. It was here that he set up the company. 
Marcus Wainwright of Rag & Bone
On a side note before I go further: I should specify that what I appreciate is the spontenaity involved, the ability to have a feeling and roll with it, to not be afraid of where it might take you.  I’ve always admired people who have that in them. As my coworker (and fellow Cancerian) often mention, it isn’t an angel or devil that sits on our shoulders it’s those pesky bugs “Fear & Doubt” that buzz in my ear all day long.  It’s a blessing and a curse. It drives me to go that extra mile to be successful, but sometimes it makes me play life close to the hip.  So, when someone is actually able to say, “I hate the weather, I’m going to move” and follow through (and create incredible success from it to boot) I will forever admire (and be slightly envious of) you.  Sorry, that was probably way more of a personal aside than you guys signed up for. Now back to the fashion!
Shortly after, Marcus asked his best friend David to lend his financial skills and sense of style to the company.  At first David worked from London on the side, but it didn’t take long for him to follow in Marcus’ footsteps. David left his investment banking job in London and joined Marcus full time in New York. 
David Neville of Rag & Bone
In the early stages of the company, they duo hadn’t quite planned out what direction they wanted to go. For a while, it seemed sneakers were in their future, (before that Marcus had envisioned Rag & Bone as a sandwich shop!) but it was denim that would set the foundation for the brand which now has full men’s and women’s collections.  The twosome wanted to make a great pair of dark denim, that they would wear themselves. Thus, the next step in the Rag & Bone adventure began.  Kentucky, believe it or not was actually one of the largest denim manufacturing hotspots at the time. So, Marcus and David made Kentucky kind of like a second home (though living out of a motel) in order to learn directly from the manufacturers what goes into making the perfect pair of jeans. By working directly with the craftsmen who have been doing just that nearly their whole lives, the two learned the ins and outs of creating a masterfully produced garment, and developed an appreciation for quality and attention to detail that they themselves perfected for two years before actually launching their first collection in 2004.
Currently, Rag & Bone has earned a reputation for easy, ultra-wearable sportswear.  They have a distinctly “British tailored” aesthetic that imparts a clean, crisp feeling to their understated garments.  It has also earned them quite the celebrity following on both the men’s and women’s front and a CFDA award for men’s wear in 2007.
Jennifer Garner wearing Rag & Bone

Jon Hamm in Rag & Bone

Their clothing philosophy (as well as the fact that Marcus and David seem to be two of the most down to earth guys in the industry) have made an avid fan out of me as well.  One of the pieces in my wardrobe that sees frequent rotation these days is Rag & Bone’s  Stam Romper in Nude. On me, it is actually really close to nude, I could almost disappear behind it.  What’s nice though is that while it is nearly identical to the color of my fair skin, it has a strong yellow undertone, which plays off my own rose hues livening my complexion up a bit, making it appear a hair brighter than it is.

It is one of the easiest pieces to throw on in the summer. It’s light weight and breathable, yet still looks sharp and put together.  It doesn’t cling or stick or ride up. Plus, because it’s a romper, you only have to throw on one piece and not fuss over finding a top to go with the bottoms.  That doesn’t mean you can’t style it a million different ways to give it your own spin, and make it appropriate for different occasions (why it has made such frequent rotation in my wardrobe these days).  When I want to feel a little less "nude"  in this look, I throw on a pair of knit grey leg warmers and camel colored heels. The color story holds true to that austere British sensibility, and it keeps at least part of me warm when those Boston nights drop 20 degrees without warning. I should mention, knits are something Rag & Bone do very, very well. 
Or, when I want to be even more covered up, a chiffon and lace top over the romper, topped off with a scarf and black tights does the trick. I feel this is a good example to remind all you ladies that rompers are a huge trend for the summer, and they don’t have to be a one trick pony. Also, just because layering has traditionally been done UNDER the romper, if you want to avoid that parochial look there is nothing to say that you can’t wear a top OVER the piece for a whole new look- just another way to extend the life of that valuable piece. 
Or, instead of a top, you can always throw on a blazer (my solution for everything obviously). Paired with a braid and navy linen wedges it’s an easy go to look for a drink (or two) with coworkers on a random Tuesday night.

It may only be one piece, but but it can possibly one of the most versatile in your wardrobe.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Couture's Chameleon- A Closer Look at Marc Jacobs



Marc Jacobs metallic purple bow neck top and Quilted Single bag.
“Fashion is Fickle”… it’s a phrase that’s been uttered for decades, and probably one of the truest statements ever spoken.  Trends come and go season after season, and what’s hot today is not tomorrow.  That picture of you wearing what you thought was the hottest thing to hit the runway five years ago is probably the same picture you feverishly try to hide.  If there was ever a designer to understand this intrinsic quality of fashion, and use it to his complete advantage, it would have to be Marc Jacobs.  The way he has transformed not only himself, but his artistic vision season after season, to always stay one step ahead of the latest trend report, is remarkable. He truly is the fashion industry's resident chameleon.  Whether it is a red carpet occasion, or a weekend at Coachella, you can find a Marc Jacobs design suitable for any occasion.  While Apple may have cornered the “There’s an app for that,” market in technology, in the fashion industry you need look no further than Marc Jacobs to say “There’s a garment for that.”   

Marc Jacobs portrait from Elle Magazine
When being interviewed by Calvin Klein for Harpers Bazaar in 2010 Marc Jacobs said, “…I guess when I look over my shoulder at other designers, I feel like people are so definitive. It’s so clear to me what their aesthetic is, what they’re projecting. And I look at my own work and I think, 'Who could ever decipher what the hell is going on?'”  It is this constantly shifting aesthetic that allows for collections that evolve season after season, reinventing trends, silhouettes, and the face of fashion as we know it. His own ever changing vision is what contributes to  the relevancy of  his own line (which he has sustained since 1986), as well as being able to effortlessly switch gears and provide creative direction for the polar opposite French house, Louis Vuitton, and his diffusion line, Marc by Marc Jacobs.  Hi fashion barometer is always one step ahead of the game.

Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis 1992
That's not flannel... it's silk!
While he may ooze early 90’s grunge one season and whimsy of the 70’s the next there is, believe it or not, a method to the madness.  No matter what decade Jacobs draws his inspiration from he seamlessly combines it with the futuristic insight of a true visionary. He turns the high to low, and then sells it at a high price.  In fact, he is at the helm of two of the world’s most expensive luxury brands, and for good reason.  It is more difficult than you think to make something appear deconstructed, yet maintain the structural integrity and craftsmanship of a true luxury brand. It also takes incredible genius to transform $300-a-yard fabrics into something so “everyday,” i.e. Jacob’s controversial (but his personal favorite) “Grunge” line for Perry Ellis (where he got his start fresh out of Parson’s School of Design in NY) in 1992.  I promise you making silk look like flannel is no easy (or cheap) feat.
Sofia Coppola photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs
Kim Gordon photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs
Victoria Beckham photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs
It is the muses photographed by Juergen Teller over the past 11 years have set the tone for the quintessential Marc Jacobs “look” among the changing tides of the brand’s collections. A look Marc Jacobs has referred to as a girl (girl being the operative word) who is “not a wallflower, exactly, but close to it. Or she’d like people to think she is, in her $4,000 dress and artfully mussed hair… She’s the awkward little sister.” The ground breaking ads featuring Sofia Coppola, Kim Gordon (of Sonic Youth fame,) and Victoria Beckham (though I doubt any of us can picture Posh as an “awkward little sister” she plays the role in the ads quite nicely) have become eternally associated with the brand.  These blown out, over exposed, and down-right gritty images were nothing like the ultra glossy, ultra luxe, and ultra sexy campaigns being run by his peers such as Gucci and Dior at the time.  These images were raw, and quite frankly a little awkward. It was the magical collaboration of Marc’s fashion captured by the lens of Juergen Teller that brought us these new wave campaigns  and reminded us that models were merely props for the clothing, not the other way around, and that being a little creepy, could be really cool.

Dakota Fanning photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs
My personal favorites are the ones of Dakota Fanning, both when she was young and more recently in 2009 for the launch of Jacob’s perfume Lola. The Jacobs/Teller collaboration was a match made in heaven. Teller’s photographic style provided consistency to the brand on the campaign front; resonating season after season in spite of Marc Jacob’s continually shifting inspirations. 
Dakota Fanning photographed by Juergen Teller
for Marc Jacobs "Oh Lola" fragrance
Marc's chameleon like approach reminds me a lot of myself.  I’ve always been a little envious of those girls who have a “signature” style. I’ve also been a little envious of those artists who have a unique singular vision. That one thing they are known for. When it comes to fashion and art, I’ve never been one of those girls. I may wake up one morning and want to dress like a bohemian princess and be inspired by vintage circus performers, and the next I’ll resemble Madonna circa “Like a Virgin” and be inspired by Navajo weaving.  I can’t help it; I’m artistically (and fashionably) fickle.

Marc Jacobs Metallic Purple Camouflage
 Print Top (Fall 2009), Perforated Silk Tank, and Metallic
Lavender Jeans
Marc Jacobs Metallic Purple Camouflage
 Print Top (Fall 2009), Perforated Silk Tank, and Metallic
Lavender Jeans
In today’s case, Marc was taking me back to an era of fashion I was too young to appreciate, that weird late 80’s early 90’s time of over the top silhouettes, bold colors, and shades of denim that made everyday Easter- and I couldn’t have been happier to be there. This is an outfit you can’t help but have fun in.  Special touches like the metallic sheen to the lavender denim, the abstract camouflage print, the way the edges of the attached scarf are cut to give you the perfectly draped point, the perforated texture of the not so basic white tank give the outfit a special touch, and elevate it with a contemporary spin. Oh, and remember how I mentioned his “fashion barometer” being one step ahead of the game? This Lurex button down shirt is from Fall 2009, but look for the shiny material to be one of the big trends of the upcoming fall season.
Click to Enlarge


The bag in particular holds a special place in my heart- it was the first designer handbag I ever purchased. I have been given a few as wonderful gifts, but this was the first one bought with my own money.  The Quilted Single is perfect starter designer bag for your wardrobe. It’s a simple shape, completely functional and eternally classic. The quilting and flap are reminiscent of the iconic Chanel Classic, but the chain detailing that culminates in a delicate leather strap isn’t quite as heavy. The hardware is understated, with no blazing logos to keep it from being too flashy. You have to hold the bag to appreciate the butter-soft leather, its impeccable craftsmanship, and all the luxe ingredients that blend together to make a decadent home for my personal possessions.

Marc Jacobs Quilted Single


I wasn’t the only one who Marc played muse for this week. Coincidentally on the very day I chose to sport my full-out Marc Jacobs ensemble, my co-worker, dear friend, and author of The Life of a Paperdoll, Taryn Antoniou strolled in wearing her Marc By Marc Jacobs trench complete with Marc By Marc Jacobs studded satchel.  Not only did she look absolutely fabulous, she so graciously provided me with the perfect excuse to talk a little bit about his immensely successful diffusion line. 
Taryn in her Marc by Marc trench coat and
Marc by Marc studded satchel
Launched in 2001, it has become one of the most popular contemporary lines in the world, with several stores worldwide and consistently increasing quarterly sales.  All because of Marc Jacobs genius combined with the industry know-how of his long time business partner Robert Duffy.  The two have become a dynamic duo making great fashion, with the ability to sell the hell out of it.  A reasonable price point and incredible sense of kitschy, cliché, humor on top of bold color and design make the label an easy sell.  Marc by Marc Jacobs provides access to the same “street style” look of Marc Jacobs, albeit a little more tongue-in-cheek for a lower price-point.
A strong point of contention among diffusion lines is whether or not by lowering your price points you are also lowering the integrity of the main line.  Why buy a $900 top when you can buy a $200 one possesing the same name? It all comes down to the garments themselves. The Marc by Marc Jacobs line can offer garments at lower price points by using fabrics that are priced less per yard, patterns that are simpler to cut, and processes that are more attuned to mass market than the unique “one of a kind” processes that are associated with couture pieces.  A talented team assembled by Jacobs and Duffy are responsible for creating the collection, while Jacobs oversees and finalizes the end production. This is not to say that the diffusion line sacrifices quality or craftsmanship. While it may not be the astronomical price tags associated with the Marc Jacobs label, you’re still forking over a pretty penny for many of the Marc by Marc branded goods. That’s because the diffusion line places a strong emphasis on maintaining the integrity of its name sake.  Reluctant at first, I’m sure Jacobs doesn’t regret taking Duffy’s advice now that the diffusion label brings in the company’s most revenue!
To see more great photo’s from of Taryn’s Marc by Marc moment and a glimpse into the amazingly stylish life of a paper doll make sure to visit her blog: The Life of a Paper Doll. That also includes any of the male readers I might happen to have: Her Frequently Asked Man Questions section has the potential to become your new style bible.

Monday, May 16, 2011

The American Dream of a European Princess

I first want to apoligize for the delay in my post this week, it has been a rather eventful one.  I had the lovely wedding of my cousin Devin and his new wife Linn to attend. It just so happens that the desinger I'm focusing on today happened to be my designer of choice for the wedding (more on this tomorrow). Thank you Devin and Linn for providing an INCREDIBLE venue to not only wear an  amazing dress but to have a wonderful time doing it.  Now.... before we break into my wardrobe, I'd like to tell you a story...


The American dream is a lofty one, but from time to time a few great examples present themselves reassuring us that it is in fact an attainable one.  Take for instance, the story of Diane von Furstenberg.  The next few paragraphs may read more like a plot in a novel than a biography, but such was the life of the fascinating Belgian born women’s wear icon.

Act I: Diane Simone Michelle Halfin was born in Belgium, attended boarding school in Britain and later studied at the University of Geneva.  She was a social butterfly with a commanding presence. By the age of 18 Diane had even won the affection of a Prince.
Enter: Egon von Furstenberg, Prince of Germany.  The two wed in 1969, and Diane changed locations again settling down in New York City, Egon’s permanent residence.  The young socialite quickly found herself among the most exclusive circles of the New York elite and became a Studio 54 regular.  Diane was not content simply being a Princess, however. She was determined to have her own paycheck and her own identity.  She needed to prove that she didn’t need the wealth or title of her husband to succeed.  So, she did simply that.
Enter: The wrap dress, Diane’s claim to fame and eternal financial stability. The approximate 3 yards of jersey with no buttons or zippers  lead her to the hearts of women everywhere (over 5 million of them to be exact),  the cover of Newsweek magazine, and the  leader of a brand she built from the ground up, on her own… all before the age of 30.

Dissolve to: Diane the hiatus years.  Life in the fast lane took its toll on von Furstenberg.  By 1985, with her marriage over, 2 young children, and a company that was growing wildly (and through licensing, out of her control) she had had enough.  Diane retreated to Paris, France.  Though she was no longer dominating the streets of New York’s fashion scene, she still had her work cut out for her. She spent her time focusing on being a mother, starting a publishing house, and writing a book.  Although Diane herself was no longer a main feature in the media, her fashion had not left the limelight.  The next generation of fashionistas the world over began scouring vintage shops for signature DVF wears. Inspiring new faces wearing her classic designs reignited a fire in Diane.
Act II: Diane conquers the Meat Packing District and the fashion industry once again. In 1997 Diane set up her new headquarters on West 14th Street in the newly trendy Meat Packing District.  She fell in love with the area, and continues to actively help support the local community.  As recent as April 29, 2011 she was awarded the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Medal by the Municipal Art Society of New York for her efforts to revitalize the district.  One thing that didn’t need a lot of help revitalizing- the DVF name among the glitterati. Wave after wave of “it girls” made sure of that. It is no surprise that Michelle Obama, the ultimately empowered woman, has chosen DVF frocks on several occasions. In fact, it was the dress that started it all for Diane, was the same dress that Michelle Obama wore in a Christmas card sent out by the First Family in 2009. Some 30 years later that same dress was still the emblem of empowered women everywhere.
Image from Net-A-Porter.com
Image from net-a-porter.com
Cut to: Diane today, current President of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America), wife once more (to former Paramount CEO Barry Diller) and grandmother. A woman of 75 whose fierce confidence and vivaciousness could give any socialite in her 20’s a run for their money.  She is a woman whose life experiences have made her strong, confident, and one fabulous designer. She may not have started out in fashion, but she clearly demonstrates she knows her way around a dress and possesses an extraordinary ability to inspire power, confidence, and beauty in anyone who wears them.  Her passion for surfacing these qualities in women doesn’t just stop with her clothing. Diane has made it her philanthropic mission to empower women from all over the world.  In 2010 she even started the annual DVF awards which honor female humanitarians. With the vitality and zest for life von Furstenberg possesses I don’t think I’ll be writing an “End Scene” to Diane’s impact on the fashion industry and women the world over anytime soon.


Check in tomorrow to see how DVF plays out in my own wardrobe....