Showing posts with label Gucci. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gucci. Show all posts

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Gucci: Made in Italy

As I mentioned earlier this week, a recent Gucci trunk show got me thinking a lot. Not only did it remind me of that sheer trend i'm loving right now, but it also reminded me that this is a brand with some serious history. While most of us know the Gucci that the Tom Ford built in the 90's that is one of today's leading luxury brands (or a brand name thrown out quite frequently in various rap songs), Gucci is actually a brand built on a solid 90 year history with a legacy of sophistication and craftsmanship. The Italian power house of the luxury goods industry has locked in its fair share of instantly identifiable hallmarks of the brand. This recognition has also made it one of the most sought after brands in the world (actually in 2007 the Nielsen Company named them THE most desirable luxury brand in the world).

Whether it be the iconic horsebit, diamonte pattern, interlocking GG's, "The Web" (that bold green red green stripe), or bamboo details they have all come to embody a brad that is deep rooted in history, heritage and legacy.  And we all know, those are icon's that have also made the brand incredibly susceptible to knock offs. And while it may be easy to score a bag or wallet in the back room of a canal street store that looks remarkably close to the real thing.... that made in China purchase won't contain that signature "Made in Italy" craftsmanship that Gucci is renowned for.... and what accounts for its sometimes astronomical price tags.

Maintaining a dedication to locale and quality comes at a price, but as brands like Gucci can vouch for, it's a price that people are willing to pay, and I'm sure the entire city of Florence (Where the company was founded by Guccio Gucci in 1921) is thankful for that.  In Italy alone, the Gucci Group employs over 45,000 people. It's the  same Italian techniques that have come to define the impeccable quality of the brand, and have gone unchanged in their 90 year history.  That Italian dedication to craftsmanship is the very reason Guccio Gucci decided to start his business in Florence (He actually was inspired to create his own luxury leather goods shop     while admiring the luggage he encountered on a daily basis as a bell hop at The Savoy in London, where his family  had immigrated to sometime earlier).  It wasn't luggage though that started the business and gained him his strongest clientele. It was in fact, saddle bags and the illustrious world of equestrian.... hence all of the Gucci icons being equine related.  Actually, there is something unique about all of those little icons... I'll break it down simply:

Bamboo: While most people instantly think horsebit, or interlocking GG's when they think Gucci, bamboo was actually the first of the Gucci icons.  Introduced in the 1947 wartime shortages made it too difficult to get traditional materials.  Natural fibers like hemp linen and jute became the materials of choice, and the burnished bamboo was the perfect accompaniment. The fact that the curvy shape was reminiscent of a saddle fit right in with the then-clientele's aesthetic, and remains a fan favorite to this day.

The Diamante Pattern: Also a result of wartime shortages, the diamante pattern, small dark brown diamonds criss-crossing a tan background was the first of the house's signature prints. Developed in the 30's the diamond pattern was woven into hemp and used for luggage.  While its something we see on almost a daily basis in the bigger cities, this was actually widely unused except through the 50's. It wasn't until current Creative Director Frida Giannini discovered it in the archives that it made a resurgence is an increasingly popular fabrication.

The Web: The bold green red green stripe was introduced in the 1950's and was inspired by the traditional saddle girth (the strap that kept the saddle snuggly fit to the horse's back). It happens to be the centerpiece of one of Gucci's most iconic bag... The Jackie O (The bag was named after the first lady after she was seen photographed carrying the bag on several occasions while working as an editor for Doubleday). More than 60 years later the web can still be found on countless items from sunglasses to bags and sometime in novelty contrasting colors.


The Horsebit: In 1953 the horsebit that had been used to detail heavy saddle bags earlier in the decade was miniaturized to adorn the top of a supple men's leather loafer.  The rest is history.  Ever since the horsebit has been the icon of choice Gucci brand and been used as detailing on handbags, shoes, clothing, jewelry and more.   In the 1980's the Gucci moccasin with horsebit detail entered the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Arts Costume Institute.



Interlocking GG's:  The 60's also saw the introduction of the interlocking GG logo, and it's been prominently displayed by the the upper echelon the world over ever since.  The initials of its founder Guccio Gucci have been used together has fastenings for bags, buckles on belts and a million and one other things.  In the 50 plus years of its existance it has undergone many transformations, being rendered in metal, burned into velvet, squared off or to form a perfect circle.  No matter which shape it takes, the GG's still remain instatly recognizable.

As for me, my own designer shoe history starts with Gucci.  It was these turquoise ballet flats with modified horsebit detailing that were the first to enter my collection... they were my designer shoe gateway drug if you will.  They are a great example of Gucci's current direction.... a dedication to heritage while striving for modernity.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Sheer Madness

A recent Gucci trunk show (my work has perks from time to time) gave me a little wardrobe inspiration. The layers and chiffon and flowers and bold bright colors of their Fall 2011 collection are lush and indulgent. Decadent would be nice word to sum it all up. But it was this dress that came out at the end (like Rodarte on acid... aaamazing!) that reminded of how much I am in love with all of the sheer dresses and skirts popping up all over the runway over the past few seasons, and still going strong into the latest Spring shows.
Gucci Fall 2011 RTW (from Style.com) 
From Prabal Gurung's latest, to Givenchy, Chloe and Alberta Ferretti, everyone is jumping on the translucent train.
Prabal Gurung Resort 2012 (from Style.com)

Givenchy Spring 2011 Couture (from Style.com)


Chloe Spring 2011 RTW (from Style.com)

Alberta Ferretti Spring 2011 RTW (from Style.com)

With a more "lady-like" sensibility setting the trend in fashion these days, designers are finding new and sophisticated ways to  give a bit of sensuality to their clothing.  There's something about hinting at what's underneath an article of clothing, than actually showing a  ton of skin that is completely sexy.

That's what I love about this skirt of my own.

The varying sized tight pleats, tea length and cream color make it classic (and almost matronly) but when you walk, and the light hits it just right, you can see through the skirt revealing a much shorter underpinning and a bit of leg. Not, so "Little House on the Prairie" anymore. The light, ethereal skirt is great paired back to a structured leather top and boots for a nice contrast in texture.  The vintage pearl headband adds another tough of nostalgia to the look.

The diaphanous look is definitely one I think I'll be testing out and playing around with over the next few seasons.  What are your thoughts on this  transparent trend?

Oh, and speaking of Gucci, check in on Thursday for a post on the iconic brand.