McQueen for a Day Part II: The House of McQueen

It is impossible to understand Sarah Burton's designs without understanding that she is not reinventing the wheel but continuing and enriching an existing legacy. When Sarah stepped in as Creative Director of Alexander McQueen in 2010 she had big shoes to fill. That was probably the understatement of the century. She was taking over after the passing of a genius.

Lee Alexander McQueen

Lee Alexander McQueen’s reputation as the prodigy of bespoke English tailoring is not without merit. He started honing his skills as a young child making dresses for his older sisters. At the tender age of 16 McQueen left school to accept an apprenticeship at the famed Saville Row tailors Anderson and Shephard.  He quickly moved onto Gieves & Hawkes where McQueen had his first opportunity to work with the Royal Family. Here, he reportedly tailored a suit for Prince Charles (with a rumored message hidden in the lining to boot). Both companies are considered masters in technical English tailoring. Another move followed shortly when McQueen accepted a position at theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans. It is here that he developed his skills as a tailor even further, perfecting his technique and mastering the skills of six different methods of pattern cutting from the 16^th century. I would suspect it is also here that McQueen developed his love for over the top theatrics and “fashion as art” aesthetic.

It was also at this time that Lee went back to school, obtaining his masters degree in fashion design at the Central Saint Martin’s School. At the age of 20 his graduation collection in 1992 was bought in entirety by famed stylist Isabella Blow.  Thus, the start of a life-long (though be it too short on both ends) friendship that literally shaped his career.  It was Isabella who inspired McQueen to start going by his middle name “Alexander,” when he launched his women’s wear line.

Isabella Blow

McQueen’s rise to fame was fast and furious.  By 1996 he was appointed as Creative Director of French Haute Couture house Givenchy (it is pronounced ji-vahn-she!) His heart was obviously not in the French house, actually telling Vogue in 1997 he thought his collection was “Crap.” (What I wouldn’t give to have my “crap” look like that.)  He longed to go back to England, and finally in 2001 when he announced his contract with Givenchy was “creatively constraining” he did.

Givenchy Spring 1997 Collection

By now Alexander McQueen had sold a 51% share of his take in his own company to the Gucci Group. He remained Creative Director and focused on expanding his kingdom. By 2005 the brand consisted of women’s wear, menswear, accessories, and even fragrances.  In 2006 the diffusion line McQ was also added to the roster. 

Before his untimely death on February 11, 2010 McQueen became the ruler of a fashion empire. He accomplished in less than 10 years what others never achieve their entire lives.  The list of Alexander’s accolades is extensive. He was voted British Designer of the year not once but four times in 1996, 1997, 2001, and 2003. 2003 was a huge year for McQueen. That year he was also voted International Designer of the Year by The Council of Fashion Designers of America and a Most Excellent Commander of The British Empire (CBE) by her Majesty the Queen. In 2001 he was GQ Menswear Designer of the Year.

McQueen: Most Excellent Commander of The British Empire

In that time Alexander McQueen also developed several loyal subjects.  It is not surprising that theatrically inclined Bjork and slightly dark and twisted personalities like Lady Gaga and Anna Paquin were fierce proponents of the brand. Sarah Jessica Parker was also a deeply loyal friend and advocate. 

Alexander McQueen and Bjork

Anna Paquin in Alexander McQueen
at the SAG Awards



Lady Gaga in Alexander McQueen

 The woman who would carry on his artistic vision, Sarah Burton, was also a close confidant.  To bring the wedding theme full circle, one of McQueen’s most famous designs is actually based on Sarah Burton’s own wedding dress.

Lace dress from McQueen's "Widows of Culloden" collection

Together with another of his close collaborators, Nick Knight, McQueen put on some of the world’s most entertaining shows that were about so much more than fashion.  They embodied history, vision, and pushed the boundaries of social propriety.  Through his extensive and purposeful use of out of the ordinary models (such as former Paralympian and double amputee Aimee Mullins) McQueen forced us to find beauty in the unexpected. Through his razor sharp tailoring and remarkable creativity and craftsmanship  he made us question the very shape of fashion as we know it. (Think of the controversial "bumster" from his early collections and the more recent "armadillo" shoe that at least 8 models have refused to wear.)

Aimee Mullins in Alexander McQueen- including custom designed prosthetics

Alexander McQueen "Bumster" trousers

Alexander McQueen "Armadillo" shoe

The Costume Institute at the Met will be opening an exhibit commemorating the life and accomplishments of Alexander McQueen on Wednesday, May 4, 2011. The retrospective offers a glimpse into the fantastical vision of arguably one of the most innovative and inspirational designers of our time.  If you can’t make it to New York, Style.com has a great sneak peak of the exhibit with comments by Tim Blanks.  In this interview with Vogue Sarah Burton gives her own commentary on a few key pieces in the exhibit. 

Pieces from The Met's Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty Exhibition